Trader Vic’s, Hotel Bayerischer Hof, Munich

The Trader Vic’s in Munich, which opened in 1971 in time for the 1972 Munich Olympic Games, has long been on my list of must-see classic Polynesian / tiki temples. Tiki’s heyday was fading in the 1970s but the Oakland-based Trader Vic’s chain was still opening restaurants in the classic Polynesian Pop style – richly decorated with bamboo, tapa cloth, lanterns, and tikis. For example, in 1972 the Emeryville, California, location opened and in 1976 the Atlanta restaurant opened (both still operational). On my recent visit to Germany I finally had my chance to visit this Holy Grail of Trader Vic’s!

Trader Vic’s is a subterranean space in the swanky, historic Hotel Bayerischer Hof (originally opened in 1841). I was excited to see their hours carved in the doorway: 5:00pm until 3:00am every day! In comparison, the Trader Vic’s near me closes at about 10pm.

tikis at the end of the bar

On entering I was awestruck with the stunning decor! The restaurant is packed with beautiful tikis and carved wood panels, lamps of every type (fish floats, fish traps, puffer fish, and many other types), ceilings and walls covered with bamboo, tapa cloth, reed matting and Polynesian artifacts, and lovely rattan chairs with koa wood tables. Having seen most of the Trader Vic’s in the U.S. that existed since the late 90s (plus London) I would say that this easily ranks at the top for decor and atmosphere, with the departed original Chicago and Beverly Hills locations and the still open London and Atlanta rounding out my top five.

I started with their house specialty cocktail, the Munich sour, which is basically a whiskey sour except with the excellent Asbach Uralt German brandy instead of whiskey. I also tried some of my favorite Trader Vic’s cocktails (on repeat visits to the bar) but was not terribly impressed with the drink execution. They tasted OK, but not as good as the drinks when they are made precisely and correctly, as they were at Beverly Hills’ original bar when it was open (or when made at home from the original recipes).

Munich Sour

I did not get a chance to dine at Trader Vic’s Munich on my visit, but they did allow me to explore the restaurants many dining rooms and take some pictures. Every room was impressive but none of my photos of the dining rooms came out very good (the pictures posted here are all from the bar and lounge). They have two of the signature Trader Vic’s Chinese wood burning ovens in the restaurant (usually you are wise to order a meat entree that is prepared in the ovens).

Trader Vic’s
Promenadeplatz 2-6, 80333 Munich, Germany
Tel: 089 2120995
Open Mon-Sun 5pm–12am (or later in the bar)

Thanksgiving Dinner in the Bay Area

For those who don’t have family nearby to visit for Thanksgiving dinner, Le Continental hereby presents some suggestions for dinner on Thanksgiving in the Bay Area. Note: there are probably many newer restaurants that are offering Thanksgiving dinner. The focus of this blog is such that we will only suggest older, classic restaurants.

Most hofbrau style restaurants have turkey dinner on the menu. By hofbrau I’m referring to the Bay Area meaning of the term: a cafeteria, where you order from a food line and take your tray of food to a table (not the German term Hofbräu, which usually refers to a brewery that serves food). Usually there are waiters to take drink orders.

One of the oldest hofbraus in the Bay Area, and one of my favorites, is Lefty O’Doul’s, named after a San Francisco native pro baseball player, which opened in 1958. I’m not a fan of sports bars in general (too many TVs and beer posters for my liking), but this one has much historic charm, from its wood interior and tables to its many photos and memorabilia of local sports legends of the past. Nothing is decorated in a tacky way like many other sports bars. The food is pretty good and the drinks are strong. My favorite meal there is the house made corned beef hash for breakfast (with a bloody Mary of course). It’s a large place so it should be able to accommodate customers at any time of day.

Another historic hofbrau is Tommy’s Joynt, which opened in 1947 on Highway 101 in the heart of San Francisco. Cluttered with bric-à-brac and signs, much of it very old, it is a charming bit of old San Francisco with a Victorian theme. The food is good and very inexpensive. There is a huge beer selection, and the highballs are cheap but strong (Old Crow bourbon in the well is a plus).

There are other hofbraus in the Bay Area, but they all have more contemporary decor, are generally too brightly lit for my taste, and have mostly mediocre food, including the Harry’s chain, the Roast Haus in San Rafael, Bogy’s in S. San Francisco, the Europa in Orinda, and Oak’s Corner in Emeryville. One hofbrau that I would like to try is Chick-n-Coop in San Francisco’s Mission neighborhood, but I phoned and it will be closed on Thanksgiving Day. Finally, there is Brennan’s in Berkeley, an old favorite that had pretty good food, but it moved to a new location a couple of years ago and I have not wanted to check it out. Sam’s Hofbrau in Oakland R.I.P. (not really, it was actually pretty disgusting).

For something much, much fancier you could do no wrong at Harris’ Steakhouse, that is open and serving Thanksgiving dinner. (There are probably booked already, but there’s always next year.) Harris’ only dates back to 1984 (not insignificant in restaurant years!), but it has a classic feel (it replaced the venerable Grisson’s) and serves the best dry-aged prime steaks in the Bay Area, in my not-so-humble opinion. It is not affiliated with the Harris Ranch lower-end steakhouse and brand. Make sure you enjoy a Manhattan or Martini, which is served with its own little pitcher in a barrel of ice. And don’t forget to peek  at the steaks aging through the window from the sidewalk.

Another good choice is the House of Prime Rib. I like what’s left of the vintage decor (though much of it has been redecorated) and the food is pretty good. But I’ve had some problems with the service in the past, and on some occasions I’ve been unhappy with the table I was seated at and the noisy atmosphere. It is also always incredibly busy (which I can’t really understand). But if you can snag a booth in the front room it is an experience you should have at least once. They carve the meat and serve from beautiful metal carts, which originated at Lawry’s The Prime Rib in Los Angeles. They also stole the spinning salad bowl from Lawry’s.

As far as the East Bay (where I live) goes, I don’t know of any classic or historic restaurants that will be open for Thanksgiving dinner, but if you do know of one please mention it in the comments.

Thanksgiving Day Hours, 2012

Lefty O’Doul’s – 7am – 12 midnight
333 Geary Street  San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 982-8900

Tommy’s Joynt – 10am – 12 midnight
1101 Geary Boulevard  San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 775-4216

Harris’ – 3:30pm – 8:30pm
2100 Van Ness Avenue  San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 673-1888

House of Prime Rib – call (I couldn’t get through as the line was busy)
1906 Van Ness Avenue  San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 885-4605

Hofbraühaus, Munich, Germany

I recently spent some time in Germany and Scotland, so I’ll be blogging in the next few posts about some of the historic restaurants and bars I visited on my latest trip.

Munich’s Hofbraühaus brewery and beer hall dates all the way back to 1589, when it was built to supply duke Wilhelm V and his family with better beer than they were used to getting in Munich. The beer hall was relocated in 1606 and again around 1800, to be torn down and rebuilt in 1896. A portion of that building survived bombings in WWII and was fully rebuilt in 1958, which is the current Hofbraühaus.

 

photo by cooltownstudios.com

photo by cooltownstudios.com

 

The main hall, Schwemme, is a large room with many wooden tables (some are original from 1896) and is usually filled with a happy, boisterous crowd enjoying music by a Bavarian oompah band. There is also a smaller dining room, the Bräustüberl, upstairs on the second floor along with a large festival hall, and an outdoor beer garden.

 

 

The beer comes in three varieties at the Hofbraühaus: dark, original (helles), both served in one liter mugs (or maß), and weisse (wheat), served in half-liter glasses. The waitresses can carry up to ten or twelve full liter mugs at one time! The beer is super fresh and delicious!

 

 

I ordered a traditional crispy roasted pork knuckle with a potato dumpling and a pretzel. Hearty and tasty!

 

 

The Hofbraühaus is a must-visit when in Munich!

 

Hofbraühaus
Platzl 9, 80331 Munich, Germany
Tel: 089 290136100
Open: Mon-Sun 9am–11:30pm

 

“Nothing could be finer than dinner in the diner”

When I was in high school in the 1970s I was lucky enough to take the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad’s Rio Grande Zephyr from Ogden, Utah to Denver, Colorado. It was the last non-Amtrak long distance passenger train in America. I wanted to ride her before she disappeared so my Dad took me on the trip as a graduation present. As shown in the photo below the train had many dome cars including an observation dome lounge car on the rear of the train.

Image copyright John Wiesmann (RailPictures.net)

Eating in the dining car was very special on the Zephyr streamliner, with white linen, fine china and silver, a vase of fresh flowers, and fresh Rocky Mountain Trout served while the train was passing the spectacular scenery of the Rockies.

Zephyr menu

Here’s an interesting article about the history of dining aboard passenger trains in the U.S.:
Last call to dinner – Classic Trains Magazine.

Hy’s Steak House, Honolulu, Hawaii

Before I start posting about my recent trip to Germany and Scotland I thought I would mention a place that came to mind today which I have not visited yet.The last time I was in Hawaii was over ten years ago. We visited a few classic restaurants that we had heard about on Oahu (including the Polynesian La Mariana Supper Club in Honolulu) and on Hawaii (The Big Island). More on those when I dig out my Hawaii photos. But recently I heard about a classic restaurant that I had not known about before: Hy’s Steak House in Honolulu.

Hy’s opened in 1976 (I can hardly believe that was 36 years ago), though it looks much older. It started as one of the Canadian chain of Hy’s Steak Houses that started in 1955, but it is no longer part of that company. The decor is a classic plush Old English gentlemen’s club / library setting.

image by Hy's of Hawaii's facebook page

image by Hy’s of Hawaii’s facebook page

The menu includes Caesar salad prepared tableside, USDA Prime dry-aged steaks broiled over Hawaiian kiawe wood, Chateaubriand for two carved tableside, and flambéd desserts such as Bananas Foster and Cherries or Strawberries Jubilee. In other words, classic American steak house fare that we all know and love. Please go there and report back here or I will be forced to go back to Hawaii (darn).

image by Hy's of Hawaii's facebook page

image by Hy’s of Hawaii’s facebook page

Hy’s Steak House
Ste A, 2440 Kuhio Avenue, Honolulu, HI 96815
(808) 922-5555
Open Mon-Fri 6–10pm, Sat-Sun 5:30–10pm