Albie’s Beef Inn, San Diego, California – CLOSED

Posted on January 18, 2013 by The Jab

UPDATE: Albie’s closed at the end of 2015 and was gutted by the new owner. The previous owner Ted Samouris saved much of the decor including all the nudes and plans to reopen, but as of June 2017 nothing has been announced so it seems unlikely that it will reopen.

Staying on topic with last week’s post on the Red Fox Room in San Diego, my friend D. A. Kolodenko recently gave a wonderful review of another one of my favorite steakhouses, Albie’s Beef Inn, for San Diego’s City Beat weekly magazine. In his column he mourns the loss of the Whaling Bar in the remodel of the venerable La Valencia Hotel in La Jolla, which opened in 1926. Although you will no longer be able to enjoy that classic bar, there are still some classics that remain in San Diego, Albie’s being one of them, the adjacent Andy’s Steak ‘n Eggs being another. Read on for more…Goodbye, Whaling Bar.

Photo by Amy T. Granite for City Beat

Some of Albie’s artworks by Larry ‘Vincent’ Garrison

Albie’s happy hour (M-F 4pm-7pm) is one I try to catch when I’m in town, for double well drinks at the single price, plus free food. A photo I took of the bar area in 2001 (it is not uncommon to see people with walkers in Albie’s):

Albie’s Beef Inn
1201 Hotel Circle South, San Diego, CA 92108
Phone (619) 291-1103
Open for Lunch M-F 11:30am – 4pm; Happy Hour M-F 4pm – 7pm; Dinner Mon-Th 5pm – 10pm, Fri-Sat 5pm – 11pm; closed Sundays

Red Fox Room, San Diego, California – RELOCATED

Posted on January 9, 2013 by The Jab

I grew up in San Diego and spent my early adulthood out and about on my Lambretta motor scooter almost every night of the week. But even after I turned 21 I wasn’t keen on hanging out in bars. The usual crowd in most San Diego bars were either older folks (which I appreciate now) or young surfer-jock types that I usually didn’t get along with. There were a couple of exceptions, like Pal Joey’s that had good bands (such as the Paladins in their early days). But in the late ’80s things changed with the opening of the Casbah Club and the Pink Panther bar, which really got things going as far as bar culture in San Diego. The Casbah was a live music club while the Pink Panther was just a dive bar taken over by cool people, with good music provided by DJs most nights of the week. You could always count on a fun and hip crowd at either venue, many dressed in vintage attire as that was when the rockabilly/swing scene really got going (along with a lot of the Mod scene that had not moved away or “settled down”).

Image by Dan Soderberg (http://www.dsoderblog.com)

It was around this time when I started visiting some of the vintage restaurants and bars that remained in San Diego, with friends who had the same appreciation for what remained of classic places with style where you could go gussied up for a night on-the-town and fit right in. The Red Fox Room was one of the best of these, and it remains pretty much the same to this day. I will remember fondly the nights at the piano bar (one of many in San Diego that are still going – more on those in later posts) when Shirley Allen was on the keys. Sadly, cancer took her away in 2005 after 15 years playing lounge standards with friends sitting in on various instruments.

Dining Room – photo by Paul Krawczuck

The Red Fox Room opened in 1959 on U.S. highway 80, taking over the restaurant space next to the Lafayette Hotel (formerly the Imig Manor), which originally opened in 1946 and is a great place to stay in San Diego. The interior decor installed in the Red Fox has a fascinating history. Many of the wood treatments (such as the fireplace mantel) were created in 1642 and installed in an inn in Surrey, England (which first opened in 1560). In 1926 the Inn was dismantled and the carved wood, bar, and back bar all were shipped to the U.S. and installed in actress Marion Davies’ beach house, which became a hotel in 1947. Sometime in the 1950s part of the interior was removed, the hotel demolished, and some of the interior from the old Surrey Inn was installed in the Red Fox Room. When you visit, try to explore the dining room, bar, and foyer and look at the beautiful detailed woodwork (hopefully without bothering other diners!).

booth in bar area

Now on to the food. The restaurant is a steak house so I recommend the steaks of course. The steaks are aged choice beef and an excellent value, ranging from a low of $18.95 for a top sirloin to a high of $23.95 for a filet mignon. I usually get the regular sized New York steak, but on my last visit in December I went twice so I tried the filet as well as the New York. I preferred the New York’s flavor because of the extra marbling, but I thought the filet was very good, a real bargain. All steaks come with a chilled relish dish, a nicely chilled salad w/ homemade dressing, choice of baked potato, French fries, or rice pilaf, and garlic cheese bread – yum! All the sides were quite good so you can see what a good value dinner is here. The drinks are also a good value – they are strong yet inexpensive. And they use Old Crow in the well, which is one of my favorite cheap bourbons!

The Red Fox Room is one of my favorite steakhouses in the country, for the decor, atmosphere, food, and good service. The steaks won’t knock you out, but at these prices they are a bargain. So dine there and then snag a table in the piano bar for some good jazz and standards – a wonderful evening back in time! Even better, book a room at the recently refurbished Lafayette Hotel and make a night of it!

Red Fox Room
2223 El Cajon Boulevard, San Diego, CA 92104
(619) 297-1313
Open Mon-Fri 11:00am-2:00am, Sat 4:00pm-2:00am, Sun 4:00pm-12am (midnight)

Empress of China, San Francisco – CLOSED

Posted on December 6, 2012 by The Jab

I don’t visit touristy Chinatown in San Francisco very often, but once in a while I like to go there on an afternoon and explore, preferably on a rainy day when the streets are wet and fewer people are out. One of my favorite rest stops is the bar at the Empress of China, especially for Happy Hour, which offers half-priced appetizers and cocktails daily from 3:00pm – 6:00pm.

The Empress of China opened in 1967 in a modern office building designed by the architectural firm of John Carden Campbell and Worley K. Wong and built on a hill so the restaurant and bar have sweeping views of Chinatown, North Beach, and Telegraph Hill from its large plate-glass windows. While waiting for the elevator that takes you from the lobby to the bar take a look at the many photos of celebrities who have dined there in the restaurant’s heyday of the 1960s and 1970s.

Empress of China interior, San Francisco, 2004

Empress of China bar, photo by Telstar Logistics

As you can see the bar has a very nice 60s feel to it, and with the views it’s a wonderful place to relax over a $5 Mai Tai (albeit a sweet pineapple 1970s version) during Happy Hour. The restaurant itself has a very different look, though an amazing one. Interiors are reproductions of the styles of decorating that was popular during the Han Dynasty of around 200 B.C.

Portion of 1970s menu from the archives of the National Museum of American History

Empress of China dining room postcard

Not much has changed since this vintage postcard photo was taken. Only the furniture is different. You can this one and other rooms in the photo gallery on the restaurant’s web site. Since I have not dined there in many years I can’t offer a review of the food. I know it’s fairly expensive, but probably worth it for the atmosphere and views, especially at night. Give this place a chance for dinner sometime because it’s almost a miracle that a place like this has survived so long in a city like San Francisco that has so much creative and inexpensive Asian food.

Empress of China
838 Grant Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 434-1345
Open for lunch M-F 11:30am-3pm, dinner M-F 5pm-10pm, Sat & Sun 11:30am-10pm
Bar open 3pm-10pm, Happy Hour daily 3pm-10pm

Thanksgiving Dinner in the Bay Area

Posted on November 21, 2012 by The Jab

For those who don’t have family nearby to visit for Thanksgiving dinner, Le Continental hereby presents some suggestions for dinner on Thanksgiving in the Bay Area. Note: there are probably many newer restaurants that are offering Thanksgiving dinner. The focus of this blog is such that we will only suggest older, classic restaurants.

Most hofbrau style restaurants have turkey dinner on the menu. By hofbrau I’m referring to the Bay Area meaning of the term: a cafeteria, where you order from a food line and take your tray of food to a table (not the German term Hofbräu, which usually refers to a brewery that serves food). Usually there are waiters to take drink orders.

One of the oldest hofbraus in the Bay Area, and one of my favorites, is Lefty O’Doul’s, named after a San Francisco native pro baseball player, which opened in 1958. I’m not a fan of sports bars in general (too many TVs and beer posters for my liking), but this one has much historic charm, from its wood interior and tables to its many photos and memorabilia of local sports legends of the past. Nothing is decorated in a tacky way like many other sports bars. The food is pretty good and the drinks are strong. My favorite meal there is the house made corned beef hash for breakfast (with a bloody Mary of course). It’s a large place so it should be able to accommodate customers at any time of day.

Another historic hofbrau is Tommy’s Joynt, which opened in 1947 on Highway 101 in the heart of San Francisco. Cluttered with bric-à-brac and signs, much of it very old, it is a charming bit of old San Francisco with a Victorian theme. The food is good and very inexpensive. There is a huge beer selection, and the highballs are cheap but strong (Old Crow bourbon in the well is a plus).

There are other hofbraus in the Bay Area, but they all have more contemporary decor, are generally too brightly lit for my taste, and have mostly mediocre food, including the Harry’s chain, the Roast Haus in San Rafael, Bogy’s in S. San Francisco, the Europa in Orinda, and Oak’s Corner in Emeryville. One hofbrau that I would like to try is Chick-n-Coop in San Francisco’s Mission neighborhood, but I phoned and it will be closed on Thanksgiving Day. Finally, there is Brennan’s in Berkeley, an old favorite that had pretty good food, but it moved to a new location a couple of years ago and I have not wanted to check it out. Sam’s Hofbrau in Oakland R.I.P. (not really, it was actually pretty disgusting).

For something much, much fancier you could do no wrong at Harris’ Steakhouse, that is open and serving Thanksgiving dinner. (There are probably booked already, but there’s always next year.) Harris’ only dates back to 1984 (not insignificant in restaurant years!), but it has a classic feel (it replaced the venerable Grisson’s) and serves the best dry-aged prime steaks in the Bay Area, in my not-so-humble opinion. It is not affiliated with the Harris Ranch lower-end steakhouse and brand. Make sure you enjoy a Manhattan or Martini, which is served with its own little pitcher in a barrel of ice. And don’t forget to peek at the steaks aging through the window from the sidewalk.

Another good choice is the House of Prime Rib. I like what’s left of the vintage decor (though much of it has been redecorated) and the food is pretty good. But I’ve had some problems with the service in the past, and on some occasions I’ve been unhappy with the table I was seated at and the noisy atmosphere. It is also always incredibly busy (which I can’t really understand). But if you can snag a booth in the front room it is an experience you should have at least once. They carve the meat and serve from beautiful metal carts, which originated at Lawry’s The Prime Rib in Los Angeles. They also stole the spinning salad bowl from Lawry’s.

As far as the East Bay (where I live) goes, I don’t know of any classic or historic restaurants that will be open for Thanksgiving dinner, but if you do know of one please mention it in the comments.

Thanksgiving Day Hours, 2012

Lefty O’Doul’s – 7am – 12 midnight
333 Geary Street San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 982-8900

Tommy’s Joynt – 10am – 12 midnight
1101 Geary Boulevard San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 775-4216

Harris’ – 3:30pm – 8:30pm
2100 Van Ness Avenue San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 673-1888

House of Prime Rib – call (I couldn’t get through as the line was busy)
1906 Van Ness Avenue San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 885-4605

Nepenthe, Big Sur, California

Posted on September 4, 2012 by The Jab

On the spectacular central California coastline of Big Sur lies a mid-century landmark restaurant that boasts arguably the best views of any restaurant in the world, Nepenthe (a Greek word for an antidepressant; the word was used in Homer’s Odyssey for an ‘anti-sorrow drug’). In 1947 Bill and Lolly Fassett bought a log cabin on the site, which was built by the Coastland Trails Club in 1925. They purchased it from Orson Welles, who bought it in 1944 and planned to live in it with Rita Hayworth (but never did). Henry Miller (the author) and Lynda Sargent rented the cabin until the Fassetts bought it. The Fassetts hired Frank Lloyd Wright-trained architect Rowan Maiden (1913-1957) to design a modern restaurant adjacent to the old cabin in the Organic architectural style. Nepenthe opened in 1949, and quickly attracted the attention of many bohemian writers, artists, and celebrities who lived in or visited Big Sur, including Henry Miller, who became a regular customer.

Nepenthe is still thriving, an accessible oasis in an area that unfortunately has been somewhat invaded by over-priced lodging and exclusive spas. Big Sur is still a wonderful place to visit, but my recommendation is to avoid it during the Summer, book a historic cabin at Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn or a campsite in the Fall (Andrew Molera State Park walk-ins are a favorite), or stay nearby in Monterey/Carmel. With the money you save eat at Nepenthe.

please click on image for legible version

The prices are a bit higher than on this vintage menu reproduction! In fact they are pretty high, but not too expensive considering the setting.

please click on image for legible version

The ‘Ambrosia’ hamburgers are good – a ground beef patty, fresh ground daily by Carmel Meats, cooked over a brazier, on a soft toasted steak roll with Ambrosia sauce (salsa, tomato sauce, and mayo), served with salad and great shoestring fries ($16.50). And after your meal you must try their specialty ‘C & C’ (Chartreuse and Cognac, which isn’t on the menu anymore so you may have to explain it to the waiter). Takes the chill off the night air!

The restaurant is popular, so be ready to wait. Not really a big deal with a beer, glass of wine (the local wines are excellent), or cocktail in your hand as you soak in the view. They have tables both inside the building and outside, which probably have the best views but you don’t get to experience the mid-century architecture as much.

Here’s a home movie that shows Nepenthe in 1956, as well as Deetjen’s, which also still exists.

There is a scene in The Sandpiper (1965) filmed at Nepenthe, which you can see in this video at 4:30. Dig the sixties hippie vibe!

Nepenthe
48510 Highway #1, Big Sur, California 93920
(831) 667-2345
Open for lunch daily 11:30a-4:30p, dinner 5pm-10pm everyday except Thanksgiving and Christmas

Le Continental

dining and drinking with The Jab

Tag Archives: California

Albie’s Beef Inn, San Diego, California – CLOSED

Red Fox Room, San Diego, California – RELOCATED

Empress of China, San Francisco – CLOSED

Thanksgiving Dinner in the Bay Area

Nepenthe, Big Sur, California

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