The Big 4, Huntington Hotel, San Francisco

I used to avoid hotel restaurants. In the past I have found many to be overpriced and not that great. There are exceptions, like here and here and here…and HERE! OK, I’ve been all wrong about hotel restaurants. Many great historic restaurants still exist in hotels and some are well-preserved.

I’ve heard about The Big 4 restaurant in the Huntington Hotel for years, usually described as very expensive and stuffy. It was a regular restaurant on the annual Dine About Town prix fixe menu event in San Francisco. But I never made it there. Well, I finally went because a friend informed me that it is threatened since new owners took over the Huntington.

The Big 4

The Big 4 Restaurant opened in 1967 in the Huntington Hotel on Nob Hill, which started as a luxury apartment building in the 1920s but was converted to a hotel in 1945. The restaurant is named after the Big Four entrepeneurs from Sacramento (Leland Stanford, Collis P. Huntington, Mark Hopkins, and Charles Crocker) who started the California Republican party (strongly anti-slavery, they were instrumental in getting Lincoln elected) and later started the Central Pacific Railroad (part of the first transcontinental railroad), which greatly expanded into the Southern Pacific Railroad conglomerate. Eventually the Big Four moved to San Francisco, where the railroad’s headquarters were, many or all of them living in mansions on Nob Hill. Though the Huntington Apartment building probably was named after Collis P. Huntington, he didn’t own it as he died in 1900.

 

Big 4 creature

The restaurant is very dark and opulently furnished in dark woods and medium green leather upholstery and is filled with 19th Century antiques and artifacts from early California history, collected by Newton Cope. It was difficult getting good photos in such a dimly lit restaurant, but I didn’t mind as I love dark restaurants. The atmosphere is very cozy, not at all stuffy, and it truly seems like a restaurant that is older than it is.

The bar

The bar

 

The food I would describe as classic American food with gourmet touches, and usually there is a wild game dish on the menu. I had the smoked wild boar chop with corn-cheddar spoon bread and roasted apple. The chop was superb – lightly smokey and pork-like but more tender than most pork chops that I’ve had before. Not at all gamey (if you worry about such things). I had excellent shoestring fries as well.

Big 4 dish

 

The service was impeccable – friendly, helpful, and attentive. They have live piano entertainment every night as well. California and railroad history buffs will love this restaurant! I am definitely going to return to the Big 4!

 

The Big 4
1075 California St, San Francisco, CA 94108
Phone: (415) 474-5400
Open for Breakfast: Mon – Fri 7am – 10am, Sat – Sun 7am – 11am
Dinner: 5:30pm – 10pm daily; Bar: 4pm – 12am, daily

Where to get the best corned beef and cabbage on St. Patrick’s Day (or any day)

Drinking green beer in a phony Irish pub seems to be a popular way to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day in the U.S., but I don’t go for that. Instead I’ll be drinking a Guinness with some Guinness beef stew and capping it off with a dram of Irish whiskey or perhaps a Tom Moore Cocktail (a Manhattan with Irish whiskey).

Corned beef and cabbage is a dish I really love, so I have it year round. Here are a few suggestions of where to enjoy the classic Irish-American dish this Sunday or anytime of the year.

Every Thursday my favorite restaurant in Marin county, Marin Joe’s, serves corned beef and cabbage for lunch as the daily special and it’s a winner. Tender, succulent, and juicy meat, with cabbage that isn’t too soggy, and plenty of food for $14. I wouldn’t be surprised if they are serving it on St. Patrick’s Day as well. It’s not an Irish pub, but I love the original mid-century googie coffee shop-style interior and exterior. I will probably be posting about Marin Joe’s again in the future.

 

MJ-cornedbeef

 

The recently refurbished Tom Bergin’s is the oldest Irish pub in Los Angeles. It started in 1936 on Wilshire Blvd. as “The Old Horseshoe Tavern and Thoroughbred Club” and moved to it’s current location at 840 S.Fairfax Ave. in 1949 and was renamed “Tom Bergin’s Horseshoe Tavern.” I went before the 2012 takeover by the owner of popular Dom’s and Little Dom’s restaurants but from what I’ve read they did not mess with the historic feel of the place. It probably will be packed on St. Paddy’s Day but they serve reportedly good corned beef and cabbage every day.

 

Tom Bergin bar and grill

Photo by The Jab, 2009

 

In New York City you can’t go wrong if you head to Neary’s in midtown for corned beef and cabbage, served every day since 1967. The decor appears to have not changed much since that time, except for the addition of many photos of celebrities who have dined there.

 

Neary's NYC via TripAdvisor.com

Neary’s NYC via TripAdvisor.com

 

Beannachtam na Feile Padraig! (Happy St. Patrick’s Day!)

Marin Joe’s
1585 Casa Buena Drive, Corte Madera, CA
Phone 415.924.2081
Open Sun 4pm-11:30pm, M-Thurs 11am-11:45pm, Fri 11am-12:45am, Sat 5pm-12:45am

 

Tom Bergin’s
840 S. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles, CA
Phone (323) 936-7151
Open 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Monday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 2 a.m. Saturday and Sunday

 

Neary’s
358 E 57th St, New York, NY
Phone (212) 751-1434
Open daily 11:30am – 12:00am

CLOSED – Bahooka Ribs ‘n’ Grog, Rosemead, California – 1976-2013

This blog is primarily intended to celebrate classic and historic restaurants that still exist, but occasionally I will be mentioning a restaurant that is gone or recently closed.

As you may have heard, another original Polynesian / Tiki restaurant closed its doors for good last week. Southern California lost three classic Tiki restaurants in the last few years: The Islands in San Diego (gutted by the Crowne Plaza Hotel chain in 2007), the Royal Hawaiian in Laguna Beach (also gutted in 2007), and Trader Vic’s in Beverly Hills, which was the oldest Trader Vic’s (open since 1955) left in the country when it closed in…you guessed it, 2007. All three carried on in name only as bland “tropical” restaurants. Now the fabulously unique Bahooka in Rosemead has entered the Tiki history books. In case you’re counting (and why wouldn’t you be?) that leaves only three original Polynesian / Tiki restaurants in Southern California (Damon’s, Don The Beachcomber , and the Bali Hai).

Why does a place like the Bahooka, that started in 1967 (in a long-gone original location in Covina, California) close after over 45 years in business? Did business decline in the past ten years? Every time I went it didn’t seem very busy. Could it have held on a little longer if the food and drinks were better? I may have gone more often if it wasn’t just the atmosphere that made me want to visit. Apparently the owners needed the money so they put it on the market and it sold quickly. I guess they have every right to sell a place they have kept going for 35+ years.

In the last three weeks since the announcement that they would close was released they have done massive business, with lines forming an hour before they open at noon and waits for a table reaching to 3 and 4 hours. When I was waiting in line to say goodbye on a recent Sunday morning I wondered when was the last time many of the people there had visited. I know my friends who are into Tiki bars went occasionally, but the Tiki crowd isn’t enough to keep a large restaurant in business. I must say the staff was incredibly patient and friendly dealing with the onslaught of customers, but the drinks were worse than I remembered (I always thought they were mediocre) and the food wasn’t very fresh tasting. I’m glad I got to see it one last time but I felt bad that I’ve only been a handful of times since I first ate there in the late 1990s.

In case you have never been, the best way I can describe it is a huge, labyrinthine maze of over 100 fish tanks built into floor-to-ceiling dark wood walls and partitions separating the many intimate tables, with interesting details such as a large jail door, chains anchored to the wooden tables, Tikis here and there, numerous hanging lamps and decorations, signs, and artifacts covering every bit of space. There was a small bar with a large fish tank actually built into the bar counter. Near the hostess stand there was a large tank that contained an ancient (in fish years) pacu named Rufus who liked to eat carrot sticks.

This is what the Bahooka looks like now:

black

Visit your local Tiki bar or restaurant now, and seek them out in every town you visit, because they need the business and you never know how long they will remain.

 

The Cafe Royal, Edinburgh, Scotland

Last year I had the pleasure of visiting Edinburgh and Glasgow in Scotland, and I realized that I had neglected to post about my visit there when I covered my Europe trips on the blog last year.

On a side street near the central train station, the Cafe Royal in Edinburgh is probably the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the city (though I have not verified that), and perhaps its most beautiful. It opened in 1863 in a Parisian style building by Edinburgh architect Robert Hamilton Paterson, moving from its original 1807 location nearby.

Cafe Royal

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cafe Royal

 

 

 

The opulent Victorian and Baroque interior is filled with original carved wood paneling, ornate plaster ceilings, stained glass windows, and Doulton ceramic murals from Edinburgh’s 1886 International Exhibition of Industry, Science and Art.

Cafe Royal inside 2

In 1965 Woolworth bought the building and planned to replace the restaurant with an expansion of its store, but a public petition saved the building, which was then listed on the National Register in 1970.

Cafe Royal inside 1

The restaurant specializes in oysters, seafood, and traditional Scottish meat dishes, and the bar has a selection of local real ales on tap and a good whisky list. For an elegant dinner in Edinburgh it will be worth seeking out this restaurant.

The Cafe Royal
19 West Register Street, Edinburgh, Scotland EH2 2AA
Phone:  0131-556-1884
Open Mon-Wed 11am-11pm, Thu 11am-12am, Fri-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 12.30pm-11pm