Albie’s Beef Inn, San Diego, California – CLOSED

UPDATE: Albie’s closed at the end of 2015 and was gutted by the new owner. The previous owner Ted Samouris saved much of the decor including all the nudes and plans to reopen, but as of June 2017 nothing has been announced so it seems unlikely that it will reopen.

Staying on topic with last week’s post on the Red Fox Room in San Diego, my friend D. A. Kolodenko recently gave a wonderful review of another one of my favorite steakhouses, Albie’s Beef Inn, for San Diego’s City Beat weekly magazine. In his column he mourns the loss of the Whaling Bar in the remodel of the venerable La Valencia Hotel in La Jolla, which opened in 1926. Although you will no longer be able to enjoy that classic bar, there are still some classics that remain in San Diego, Albie’s being one of them, the adjacent Andy’s Steak ‘n Eggs being another. Read on for more…Goodbye, Whaling Bar.

Albie's Beef Inn

Photo by Amy T. Granite for City Beat

Some of Albie’s artworks by Larry ‘Vincent’ Garrison

Albie's art 2

Albie's art 1

Albie’s happy hour (M-F 4pm-7pm) is one I try to catch when I’m in town, for double well drinks at the single price, plus free food. A photo I took of the bar area in 2001 (it is not uncommon to see people with walkers in Albie’s):

Albies001.jpg

Albie’s Beef Inn
1201 Hotel Circle South, San Diego, CA 92108
Phone (619) 291-1103
Open for Lunch M-F 11:30am – 4pm; Happy Hour M-F 4pm – 7pm; Dinner Mon-Th 5pm – 10pm, Fri-Sat 5pm – 11pm; closed Sundays

 

Bill’s Food & Drink (Bill’s Gay Nineties), New York City – CLOSED

Link

Yet another old place in Manhattan closed and reopened as a fancy place (it was Bill’s Gay Nineties for the last 90 years or so, until March of last year when it closed) . Though when I went there I didn’t feel like they were very friendly. I felt like an outsider. On the bright side it looks like they kept lots of the old decor (in the bar anyway). I’m just a bit sad that I didn’t spend more time there, especially when the piano bar was going. But the cold service drove me away.

New bar area:

Bill's Food & Drink

Old bar area (photo I took in 2011):

Boston,NYC - Nov 2011 249

Bill’s Food & Drink | About Us.

Bill’s Gay Nineties is relocating.

 

Red Fox Room, San Diego, California – RELOCATED

I grew up in San Diego and spent my early adulthood out and about on my Lambretta motor scooter almost every night of the week. But even after I turned 21 I wasn’t keen on hanging out in bars. The usual crowd in most San Diego bars were either older folks (which I appreciate now) or young surfer-jock types that I usually didn’t get along with. There were a couple of exceptions, like Pal Joey’s that had good bands (such as the Paladins in their early days). But in the late ’80s things changed with the opening of the Casbah Club and the Pink Panther bar, which really got things going as far as bar culture in San Diego. The Casbah was a live music club while the Pink Panther was just a dive bar taken over by cool people, with good music provided by DJs most nights of the week. You could always count on a fun and hip crowd at either venue, many dressed in vintage attire as that was when the rockabilly/swing scene really got going (along with a lot of the Mod scene that had not moved away or “settled down”).

Image by Dan Soderberg (http://www.dsoderblog.com)

It was around this time when I started visiting some of the vintage restaurants and bars that remained in San Diego, with friends who had the same appreciation for what remained of classic places with style where you could go gussied up for a night on-the-town and fit right in. The Red Fox Room was one of the best of these, and it remains pretty much the same to this day. I will remember fondly the nights at the piano bar (one of many in San Diego that are still going – more on those in later posts) when Shirley Allen was on the keys. Sadly, cancer took her away in 2005 after 15 years playing lounge standards with friends sitting in on various instruments.

At the Red Fox Room

Dining Room – photo by Paul Krawczuck

The Red Fox Room opened in 1959 on U.S. highway 80, taking over the restaurant space next to the Lafayette Hotel (formerly the Imig Manor), which originally opened in 1946 and is a great place to stay in San Diego. The interior decor installed in the Red Fox has a fascinating history. Many of the wood treatments (such as the fireplace mantel) were created in 1642 and installed in an inn in Surrey, England (which first opened in 1560). In 1926 the Inn was dismantled and the carved wood, bar, and back bar all were shipped to the U.S. and installed in actress Marion Davies’ beach house, which became a hotel in 1947. Sometime in the 1950s part of the interior was removed, the hotel demolished, and some of the interior from the old Surrey Inn was installed in the Red Fox Room. When you visit, try to explore the dining room, bar, and foyer and look at the beautiful detailed woodwork (hopefully without bothering other diners!).

Red Fox interior

booth in bar area

Now on to the food. The restaurant is a steak house so I recommend the steaks of course. The steaks are aged choice beef and an excellent value, ranging from a low of $18.95 for a top sirloin to a high of $23.95 for a filet mignon. I usually get the regular sized New York steak, but on my last visit in December I went twice so I tried the filet as well as the New York. I preferred the New York’s flavor because of the extra marbling, but I thought the filet was very good, a real bargain. All steaks come with a chilled relish dish, a nicely chilled salad w/ homemade dressing, choice of baked potato, French fries, or rice pilaf, and garlic cheese bread – yum! All the sides were quite good so you can see what a good value dinner is here. The drinks are also a good value – they are strong yet inexpensive. And they use Old Crow in the well, which is one of my favorite cheap bourbons!

Red Fox napkin

The Red Fox Room is one of my favorite steakhouses in the country, for the decor, atmosphere, food, and good service. The steaks won’t knock you out, but at these prices they are a bargain. So dine there and then snag a table in the piano bar for some good jazz and standards – a wonderful evening back in time! Even better, book a room at the recently refurbished Lafayette Hotel and make a night of it!

 

Red Fox Room
2223 El Cajon Boulevard, San Diego, CA 92104
(619) 297-1313
Open Mon-Fri 11:00am-2:00am, Sat 4:00pm-2:00am, Sun 4:00pm-12am (midnight)

 

 

Henne Alt-Berliner Wirtshaus, Berlin

There aren’t many historic restaurants or pubs in Berlin that are as old as Henne Alt-Berliner Wirtshaus (translation: old Berlin inn or pub) in the happening Kreuzberg neighborhood. What wasn’t destroyed in WWII was probably demolished in the former East Berlin to make room for housing and public buildings. I couldn’t find an exact date when it opened, but many sources state it’s been open for a hundred years or more. So the Nazis probably visited it in the 1930s and 40s. And the Berlin Wall was built right in front of it. That’s a lot of history.

Henne’s specialty is chicken, organic and milk-fed, served in half-chicken portions. I’m pretty sure it’s broasted (cooked under pressure) because it’s cooked to order but only takes about 30 to 45 minutes (roasting would take longer). However it’s cooked, it comes to your table piping hot with dark brown, crispy skin and juicy, tender and delicious meat. Some of the best chicken that I’ve ever had. Popular side dishes are the excellent potato salad and cabbage salad. If you don’t feel like chicken there are other German classics on the menu such as wurst. Beer on tap is the excellent Schultheiss.

Henne, Berlin, chicken

The decor is classic cozy pub, with beautiful decorative wood, old tables and chairs (with plaid tablecloths), vintage lamps, and many pictures and paintings on the walls. When I was there in October on a Tuesday night at 9pm it was pretty quiet, but it’s usually very popular so reservations are recommended.

Henne, Berlin, interior

Henne
Leuschnerdamm 25, 10999 Berlin, Germany
Phone +49 30 6147 ext. 730
Hours Tues-Sat 7:00pm – 12:00am, Sunday 5:00pm – 10:00pm

Empress of China, San Francisco – CLOSED

I don’t visit touristy Chinatown in San Francisco very often, but once in a while I like to go there on an afternoon and explore, preferably on a rainy day when the streets are wet and fewer people are out. One of my favorite rest stops is the bar at the Empress of China, especially for Happy Hour, which offers half-priced appetizers and cocktails daily from 3:00pm – 6:00pm.

The Empress of China opened in 1967 in a modern office building designed by the architectural firm of John Carden Campbell and Worley K. Wong and built on a hill so the restaurant and bar have sweeping views of Chinatown, North Beach, and Telegraph Hill from its large plate-glass windows. While waiting for the elevator that takes you from the lobby to the bar take a look at the many photos of celebrities who have dined there in the restaurant’s heyday of the 1960s and 1970s.

Empress of China interior, San Francisco, 2004

Empress of China bar, photo by Telstar Logistics

As you can see the bar has a very nice 60s feel to it, and with the views it’s a wonderful place to relax over a $5 Mai Tai (albeit a sweet pineapple 1970s version) during Happy Hour. The restaurant itself has a very different look, though an amazing one. Interiors are reproductions of the styles of decorating that was popular during the Han Dynasty of around 200 B.C.

Portion of 1970s menu from the archives of the National Museum of American History

Empress of China dining room postcard

Not much has changed since this vintage postcard photo was taken. Only the furniture is different. You can this one and other rooms in the photo gallery on the restaurant’s web site. Since I have not dined there in many years I can’t offer a review of the food. I know it’s fairly expensive, but probably worth it for the atmosphere and views, especially at night. Give this place a chance for dinner sometime because it’s almost a miracle that a place like this has survived so long in a city like San Francisco that has so much creative and inexpensive Asian food.

Empress of China
838 Grant Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 434-1345
Open for lunch M-F 11:30am-3pm, dinner M-F 5pm-10pm, Sat & Sun 11:30am-10pm
Bar open 3pm-10pm, Happy Hour daily 3pm-10pm