La Mariana Sailing Club, Honolulu, Hawaii

There used to be a lot of classic tiki bars and Polynesian Pop restaurants in Hawaii, but as tourists started to seek out a more ‘authentic’ Hawaiian experience in the 1980s and 90s they fell out of favor and most of them closed. In Waikiki during the mid-century tiki heyday there was a Don the Beachcomber, the Sheraton’s Kon Tiki, a Christian’s Hut, and a Trader Vic’s, as well as a Trader Vic’s in Honolulu. Nowadays the only originals left are the Tahiti Nui in Kauai and the La Mariana Sailing Club in Honolulu. However, tiki is big again and there are some new tiki bars, most notably a resurrected Don The Beachcomber in Kailua-Kona that opened in 2005 (no connection to the original Don the Beachcomber chain).

 

entrance to Kon Tiki Room – photo by Dean Curtis, 2001 (photo was damaged by being stored with some Polaroids)

 

Annette La Mariana (Italian for “little sea”) was born in Brooklyn in 1914 and married a silent film star when she was 18 years old. The marriage ended and she later married a New Zealander, Johnny Campbell, and sailed throughout the Pacific with him, ending up in Honolulu, where they decided to create an inexpensive sailing club and marina. They started work in 1955 and in 1957 the La Mariana Sailing Club opened. The membership fee was $2 and slips rented for 50 cents a month. After spending 20 years building a lush tropical oasis on the site, in 1975 she had to vacate so she moved the entire operation 50 feet up the shore of Keehi Lagoon into an old junkyard, including the docks, boats, the clubhouse, and many trees and plants. The marina is still working as a private sailing club, but the restaurant and bar are open to the public.

 

as you enter the bar is on the right – photo by Dean Curtis, 2001

 

Annette La Mariana Nahinu continued to improve the restaurant, adding decor from local tiki bars that closed in the 1980s and 1990s, including koa wood tables and rattan furniture from Don the Beachcomber, tikis from the Kon Tiki and Tahitian Lanai, and glass floats and puffer fish lamps from Trader Vic’s, making the La Mariana a delightful living museum of the long gone tiki establishments of old Waikiki. And there’s even a waterfall inside!

 

the dining room is on your left - photo by Dean Curtis, 2001

and the dining room is on the left – photo by Dean Curtis, 2001

 

When my girlfriend and I dined at La Mariana in 2001 we enjoyed meeting Annette, who was 87 years old and still visited all of her customers at their tables. She continued to run the restaurant until just before her death in 2008 at 93.

 

looking back towards the bar from inside the dining room – photo by Dean Curtis, 2001

 

The menu is traditional surf and turf with meany seafood entrees, a few steak and chicken dishes, and a large choice of pupus. Lunch and dinner are served daily with pupus also served between meals. The tropical drinks are sweet and strong. Not up to par with the cocktails at the Mai-Kai or Tiki Ti, but they are fairly inexpensive.

 

the lounge with gorgeous carved wood panels – photo by Dean Curtis, 2001

 

It is suggested that you try to visit the bar on a Thursday night, when blind piano player Ronnie Miyashiro is on the keys starting at 7:00pm. He is legendary, having once played at the Tahitian Lanai, so he attracts an older crowd of regulars who often sing along to the Hawaiian songs and pop standards. This is not karaoke; the folks who step up to sing can carry a tune and sometimes local musicians sit in as well. But show up early because this is not a late night bar.

 

waterfall in dining area - photo by Kelly S. Osato, 2012

waterfall in dining area – photo by Kelly S. Osato, 2012

 

The La Mariana is the best place in Oahu to still experience Hawaii as it was during the 1950s through the 1970s. ALOHA!

 

La Mariana Sailing Club
50 Sand Island Access Rd, Honolulu, HI 96819
(808) 848-2800
Open daily for lunch 11:00am-3:00pm, pupus and drinks 3:00pm-5:00pm, dinner 5:00pm-9:00pm
Closed on major holidays (call ahead)

The restaurant is a bit hard to find on route 64 toward Sand Island from Honolulu Airport (convenient for before a flight or on a layover). Somehow we managed to find it in 2001 without smart phones or GPS!

 

H.M.S. Bounty, Los Angeles, California

Le Continental is a big fan of nautical themed restaurants and bars. Not the contemporary type of brightly lit rooms with furnishings in light oak, blue, and white, but the rich, old nautical style of dark varnished woods, brass fixtures, and lots of flotsam. The HMS Bounty is fairly well known as a dive bar, but I think of it also as a restaurant. It has been one of my favorite places to dine at in Los Angeles for many years.

The HMS Bounty was opened in 1962 by restauranteur Gordon Fields in the Gaylord Hotel, which opened in 1924 on rapidly growing Wilshire Boulevard. The hotel was named after land developer Henry Gaylord Wilshire, who everyone called ‘Gaylord’. The 1920s were certainly roaring along this stretch of Wilshire, with the opulent Ambassador Hotel and Coconut Grove nightclub opening in 1921 (across from where the Gaylord stands,  demolished in 2006), the first Brown Derby restaurant opening down the street in 1926 (demolished in 1980), and the spectacular art deco Bullocks Wilshire department store open for business a bit farther east in 1929 (still standing). The Gaylord was a luxury apartment building which was the first co-op (like condos, the tenant owned each apartment) apartment building in the west, however the co-op model was a failure in Los Angeles at the time so eventually most of the units were rented out.

image by Gaylord Apartments' facebook page

image by Gaylord Apartments’ facebook page

Before the space in the hotel became the HMS Bounty it was the Fountain Room, a lounge and ballroom (1924-1948), The Gay Room cocktail lounge (1948-1951), Dimsdale’s Secret Harbor (1951-?), and the Golden Anchor. When Gordon ‘Gordie’ Fields opened the HMS Bounty he already had success with his olde English Bull ‘n’ Bush steakhouse a block away on 6th and Kenmore streets, which he opened in 1956. He was a big sports fan, so he filled his first restaurant with sports memorabilia, which, along with the great steaks, attracted a clientele of sports personalities and celebrities (such as Jack Webb). The Bull ‘n’ Bush expanded down Kenmore Street and Fields (along with some partners) opened the HMS Bounty to accommodate even more diners.

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

In a short time the Bounty became a power lunch spot and a popular cocktail lounge at night, where people had martinis before having dinner at the Brown Derby, the Windsor (now the Prince), or The Cove. The story goes that there was even a secret passage from the Coconut Grove across the street to the HMS Bounty. Some of the celebrities who frequented the HMS Bounty are Winston Churchill, William Randolph Hearst, Walter Winchell, Wilbur Clark, and Jack Webb (his booth was the last booth on the right after entering the bar, the one with the Bull ‘n’ Bush sign mounted above it). Gordon Fields passed away in 1998 and Ramon Castaneda, an employee at HMS Bounty since it opened, took over the restaurant.

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

The bar at HMS Bounty is a great place to get a highball. It has the original red naugahyde booths and chairs, a model of the HMS Bounty behind the bar, and a jukebox stocked with 45s of pop standards and big band that only costs a quarter (they also have a CD jukebox on the wall). But I like to eat in the quiet dining room in back that has no TVs (it seems that every time I return to the bar there is another TV added, though at least they are small TVs). The same dark red vinyl booths, white linen tablecloths, simple nautical decor, and very dark (with no TVs).

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

(guess what time of year I took that pic?)

The menu is very reasonably priced (all entrees under $20; sandwiches under $10) and includes steaks (8 types), chops, and seafood. The food is classic and good.

Make sure you use the bathroom during your visit, which is in the basement of the Gaylord Hotel, so you can see the 1920s opulence of the lobby and display case of hotel memorabilia.

H.M.S. Bounty
3357 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90010
(213) 385-7275
Open Mon-Thu 11:00am-1:00am, Fri-Sat 11:00am-2:00am, Sun 12:00pm-1:00am

Cafe La Maze, National City, California

Marcel Lamaze was a famous chef and maître d’hôtel in Hollywood during the heyday of the 1930s through the 1950s. He opened his Cafe La Maze on the Sunset Strip in 1938. It was a popular celebrity hangout, with regulars including James Cagney, Spencer Tracy, and Pat O’Brien.

 

Cafe Lamaze, Hollywood

Cafe La Maze, Hollywood

 

Marcel Lamaze was also maître d’hôtel at the Earl Carroll Theater and at Ciro’s (formerly Lamaze’s Club Seville). He was chef at The Kings restaurant from 1951 to 1954, then maître d’hôtel at the Moulin Rouge, which replaced the Earl Carroll Theater, until his death in 1960. In the 1940s his Cafe La Maze in Hollywood became Sherry’s, later the Plymouth House, Gazarri’s, Billboard Live, and finally the Key Club, which closed recently (no relation to the Key Club bar at Cafe La Maze in National City – see photo below).

 

Cafe La Maze, National City, 1949 - photo by Cafe La Maze

Cafe La Maze, National City, 1949 – photo by Cafe La Maze

 

According to the web site for Cafe La Maze in National City, Marcel Lamaze opened the restaurant in 1940 to serve Hollywood celebrities who traveled across the border to gamble in Tijuana. However, there is no evidence of Marcel Lamaze’s connection to the restaurant in National City and city newspapers show that the restaurant was opened in 1940 by Jimmy Thompson. Nevertheless, reportedly it was a popular gambling stop with a secret gambling den on the second floor (in 1947, Thompson was arrested in a midnight raid on the establishment to enforce ant-gambling laws) and had a reputation for excellent food so it became a special destination for a fancy night out.

 

front

Cafe La Maze, National City, today

 

In the 1960s it was briefly renamed Plantation Restaurant and remodeled, probably close to its present look, but in 1967 it was named Cafe La Maze again. In 1969, Freddie Evarkiou bought the restaurant and owned it until 2004. In 2008, Evarkiou stated that Marcel Lamaze had no direct connection to the National City location, though he admitted  the restaurant obtained recipes from Marcel Lamaze, who was a well-know chef (and maître d’hôtel). So, Le Continental believes the restaurant was named Cafe La Maze as a tribute to the Hollywood location, with possible involvement by Marcel Lamaze.

 

interior - photo by Cafe La Maze

interior – photo by Cafe La Maze

 

In 2008 Adam Cook and Cuong Nguyen bought the restaurant. Their designer Michele Gonzalez has done a wonderful job redecorating the restaurant into a classic steakhouse with acknowledgements to the history of Marcel Lamaze as a Hollywood host. There are tufted red booths, red and gold flocked wallpaper, mid-century chandeliers, and photos of Hollywood celebrities from Marcel Lamaze’s era. The menu specializes in Prime Rib and steaks, which are hand cut, as well as seafood. The restaurant makes its own blue cheese dressing and soups from scratch. Despite the foggy history of the place, it is a fact that it is a historic restaurant in San Diego and we are grateful that it has survived for 75 years, and we hope it keeps going for a long, long time (maybe to 100 years old!).

 

Cafe La Maze
1441 Highland Ave, National City, CA 91950
(619) 474-3222
Open Sun-Thu 11:00am – 9:00pm (bar at 11:30pm), Fri-Sat 11:00am – 10:00pm (bar at 12:30pm)

 

Casa Duque, Segovia, Spain

A while back Le Continental visited Mesón de Cándido in the beautiful city of Segovia, Spain. While it is a classic that dates back to 1931, Casa Duque is the oldest restaurant in the city offering cochinillo asado, roasted suckling pig, which the city of Segovia is famous for. Le Continental has discovered that Casa Duque and Mesón de Cándido are linked somehow, though it isn’t mentioned on the restaurants’ web sites.

 

image by Wikimedia Commons

image by Wikimedia Commons

 

Casa Duque was opened in 1895 by Feliciana Mate and Dionisio Duque and is still owned by the Duque family. Today Marisa Duque, great-granddaughter of the original founders, runs the restaurant with her family. In looking at historic photos of Casa Duque on their web site, one photo of the restaurant, then located on Plaza de Azoquejo next to the Roman aqueduct, looked familiar to me (the following photo).

 

historic photo by Casa Duque's web site

historic photo by Casa Duque’s web site

 

As you can see the building on the right has a sign stating “Duque de Gran Casa de Comidas”. The same building in fact now houses Mesón de Cándido! On that restaurant’s web site there is a similar historic photo of the same building which has signage that states “Mesón Casa Cándido” (I couldn’t download the photo but you can see it here in the center of second row). In examining the two photos, especially the cars, it seems to me that the photo above dates from the 1920s, while the photo of Mesón de Cándido dates from the 1930s or 1940s, which makes sense since Mesón de Cándido didn’t open until 1931. So, some time after 1895 Casa Duque must have moved from the plaza to its current location. (Little of this information is mentioned on the restaurants’ web sites.)

 

doorway from bar into Sepulveda dining room - photo by Dean Curtis, 2014

doorway from bar into Sepulveda dining room – photo by Dean Curtis, 2014

 

After entering Casa Duque one passes the bar and enters the Sepulveda dining room, which is the original dining room in the restaurant, through a beautiful carved wood doorway. I was seated in this dining room for my dinner. It was almost empty at the time (around 9:00 pm) as most locals eat their large daily meal in the early afternoon.

 

Sepulveda dining room - photo by Dean Curtis, 2014

Sepulveda dining room – photo by Dean Curtis, 2014

 

The walls at Casa Duque are covered with awards, medals, historic photos, and bric-à-brac and the wood ceilings are magnificent. There are several dining rooms in this large restaurant. I took a couple more photos before my phone’s battery died (so I didn’t get any photos of my food. Note to self: bring a backup digital camera next time.). You can see more photos of the gorgeous dining rooms here.

 

photo by Dean Curtis, 2014

Sepulveda dining room – photo by Dean Curtis, 2014

 

photo by Dean Curtis, 2014

San Millán dining room, a portion of the parish house of San Millán acquired and installed in 1995, the centenary of Casa Duque – photo by Dean Curtis, 2014

 

Casa Duque’s specialties are Segovian roasted meats, such as cochinillo asado and lechal asado (roasted lamb), both cooked in the wood fired oven. Another specialty is Judiones de La Granja Gran Duque, giant white beans grown on the family farm in La Granja stewed with partridge.

 

first course - photo by es.paperblog.com

first course – photo by es.paperblog.com

I went for the menú gastronómico, which was three courses: the first course was a sampler of chorizo (sausage), morcilla (blood sausage), judiones (huge white beans), sopita castellana (Castilian soup), and a pork loin picadillo (a hash of chopped meat), followed by a large portion of cochinillo, and for dessert a piece of the Segovian specialty ponche Segoviano (layer cake).

 

I couldn’t possibly finish the first course because I had to save room for the suckling pig, which is roasted very simply so it had a pure pork flavor with juicy meat that melted in my mouth and a salty, crispy skin. Delicious.

 

Explore the inside of the restaurant:

 

Casa Duque
Calle de Cervantes, 12, 40001 Segovia, Spain
Phone: +34 921 46 24 87
Open daily 12:00pm – 5:30pm, 8:30pm – 11:30pm

 

 

Little Red Barn, San Antonio, Texas

A couple of years ago we visited the outstanding Barn Door Steakhouse in San Antonio. Today we’ll step into the Little Red Barn, which is a casual, western-style steakhouse with good food at reasonable prices.

 

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

 

The Little Red Barn was opened in 1963 in an old meat market by Ralph and Lili Hernandez. It was casual, with picnic tables for seating and the menus and cattle brands painted on the walls (as it still is today). Ralph was butcher and cook and Lili was the waitress and cashier. The place grew from a small restaurant with 8 picnic tables over the years into a large restaurant that can seat 800 customers, making it the largest steakhouse in Texas! And to boot, it’s still owned by the Hernandez family.

 

photo by littleredbarnsteakhouse.com

photo by littleredbarnsteakhouse.com

 

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

 

At the door you are greeted by a hostess in a western plaid shirt, jeans, and cowboy hat, who takes you to your table, where a chilled salad has mysteriously already been placed for your eating enjoyment. A choice of dressings (all made from scratch, daily, and available to take home) is offered. I opted for the Green Goddess.

 

 

The servers are dressed in cowgirl outfits that vary a bit, all in black and white, some in black with white fringe. All wear a cowboy hat and a neckerchief. This is the only restaurant left that still does this, that I know of. The Steak Corral in Whittier still did when I visited about 15 years ago but it looks like the servers are just wearing jeans and blue shirts these days.

 

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

 

delicious rolls - photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

delicious rolls – photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

The server brings you a menu board with a large variety of steaks and seafood. All dinners come with salad, a house made roll, and choice of potato or green beans. The steaks are cut daily by in-house butchers, the beef is ground daily, and the sides, dressings, and desserts are made from scratch.

 

 

T-bone steak

T-bone steak

 

I ordered the T-Bone Steak with a baked potato. The steaks come on distinctive metal platters.

 

 

 

 

Be sure and look around the restaurant at the humorous artworks painted on the walls. One of the dining rooms was closed while we were there but they kindly turned on the lights so we could see the walls, covered with wonderful cartoons like this:

 

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

photo by Dean Curtis, 2015

 

If you had to choose between the many steakhouses in San Antonio, you have two types: the fine dining steakhouses like Bohanans (review coming soon) and Little Rhein and the casual steakhouses like Barn Door and Little Red Barn. Between these casual steakhouses you could choose by proximity: Barn Door is near the airport, and Little Red Barn is close to downtown. Either one is a good choice, but if you want something fun and quick, Little Red Barn is my pick (though the steaks are a cut above at the Barn Door).

 

Little Red Barn
1836 S Hackberry St, San Antonio, TX 78210
(210) 532-4235
Open Mon-Thu 11:00am – 8:30pm, Fri-Sat 11:00am – 9:30pm, Sun 12:00pm – 8:00pm