Henne Alt-Berliner Wirtshaus, Berlin

There aren’t many historic restaurants or pubs in Berlin that are as old as Henne Alt-Berliner Wirtshaus (translation: old Berlin inn or pub) in the happening Kreuzberg neighborhood. What wasn’t destroyed in WWII was probably demolished in the former East Berlin to make room for housing and public buildings. I couldn’t find an exact date when it opened, but many sources state it’s been open for a hundred years or more. So the Nazis probably visited it in the 1930s and 40s. And the Berlin Wall was built right in front of it. That’s a lot of history.

Henne’s specialty is chicken, organic and milk-fed, served in half-chicken portions. I’m pretty sure it’s broasted (cooked under pressure) because it’s cooked to order but only takes about 30 to 45 minutes (roasting would take longer). However it’s cooked, it comes to your table piping hot with dark brown, crispy skin and juicy, tender and delicious meat. Some of the best chicken that I’ve ever had. Popular side dishes are the excellent potato salad and cabbage salad. If you don’t feel like chicken there are other German classics on the menu such as wurst. Beer on tap is the excellent Schultheiss.

Henne, Berlin, chicken

The decor is classic cozy pub, with beautiful decorative wood, old tables and chairs (with plaid tablecloths), vintage lamps, and many pictures and paintings on the walls. When I was there in October on a Tuesday night at 9pm it was pretty quiet, but it’s usually very popular so reservations are recommended.

Henne, Berlin, interior

Henne
Leuschnerdamm 25, 10999 Berlin, Germany
Phone +49 30 6147 ext. 730
Hours Tues-Sat 7:00pm – 12:00am, Sunday 5:00pm – 10:00pm

Empress of China, San Francisco – CLOSED

I don’t visit touristy Chinatown in San Francisco very often, but once in a while I like to go there on an afternoon and explore, preferably on a rainy day when the streets are wet and fewer people are out. One of my favorite rest stops is the bar at the Empress of China, especially for Happy Hour, which offers half-priced appetizers and cocktails daily from 3:00pm – 6:00pm.

The Empress of China opened in 1967 in a modern office building designed by the architectural firm of John Carden Campbell and Worley K. Wong and built on a hill so the restaurant and bar have sweeping views of Chinatown, North Beach, and Telegraph Hill from its large plate-glass windows. While waiting for the elevator that takes you from the lobby to the bar take a look at the many photos of celebrities who have dined there in the restaurant’s heyday of the 1960s and 1970s.

Empress of China interior, San Francisco, 2004

Empress of China bar, photo by Telstar Logistics

As you can see the bar has a very nice 60s feel to it, and with the views it’s a wonderful place to relax over a $5 Mai Tai (albeit a sweet pineapple 1970s version) during Happy Hour. The restaurant itself has a very different look, though an amazing one. Interiors are reproductions of the styles of decorating that was popular during the Han Dynasty of around 200 B.C.

Portion of 1970s menu from the archives of the National Museum of American History

Empress of China dining room postcard

Not much has changed since this vintage postcard photo was taken. Only the furniture is different. You can this one and other rooms in the photo gallery on the restaurant’s web site. Since I have not dined there in many years I can’t offer a review of the food. I know it’s fairly expensive, but probably worth it for the atmosphere and views, especially at night. Give this place a chance for dinner sometime because it’s almost a miracle that a place like this has survived so long in a city like San Francisco that has so much creative and inexpensive Asian food.

Empress of China
838 Grant Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 434-1345
Open for lunch M-F 11:30am-3pm, dinner M-F 5pm-10pm, Sat & Sun 11:30am-10pm
Bar open 3pm-10pm, Happy Hour daily 3pm-10pm

Trader Vic’s, Hotel Bayerischer Hof, Munich

The Trader Vic’s in Munich, which opened in 1971 in time for the 1972 Munich Olympic Games, has long been on my list of must-see classic Polynesian / tiki temples. Tiki’s heyday was fading in the 1970s but the Oakland-based Trader Vic’s chain was still opening restaurants in the classic Polynesian Pop style – richly decorated with bamboo, tapa cloth, lanterns, and tikis. For example, in 1972 the Emeryville, California, location opened and in 1976 the Atlanta restaurant opened (both still operational). On my recent visit to Germany I finally had my chance to visit this Holy Grail of Trader Vic’s!

Trader Vic’s is a subterranean space in the swanky, historic Hotel Bayerischer Hof (originally opened in 1841). I was excited to see their hours carved in the doorway: 5:00pm until 3:00am every day! In comparison, the Trader Vic’s near me closes at about 10pm.

tikis at the end of the bar

On entering I was awestruck with the stunning decor! The restaurant is packed with beautiful tikis and carved wood panels, lamps of every type (fish floats, fish traps, puffer fish, and many other types), ceilings and walls covered with bamboo, tapa cloth, reed matting and Polynesian artifacts, and lovely rattan chairs with koa wood tables. Having seen most of the Trader Vic’s in the U.S. that existed since the late 90s (plus London) I would say that this easily ranks at the top for decor and atmosphere, with the departed original Chicago and Beverly Hills locations and the still open London and Atlanta rounding out my top five.

I started with their house specialty cocktail, the Munich sour, which is basically a whiskey sour except with the excellent Asbach Uralt German brandy instead of whiskey. I also tried some of my favorite Trader Vic’s cocktails (on repeat visits to the bar) but was not terribly impressed with the drink execution. They tasted OK, but not as good as the drinks when they are made precisely and correctly, as they were at Beverly Hills’ original bar when it was open (or when made at home from the original recipes).

Munich Sour

I did not get a chance to dine at Trader Vic’s Munich on my visit, but they did allow me to explore the restaurants many dining rooms and take some pictures. Every room was impressive but none of my photos of the dining rooms came out very good (the pictures posted here are all from the bar and lounge). They have two of the signature Trader Vic’s Chinese wood burning ovens in the restaurant (usually you are wise to order a meat entree that is prepared in the ovens).

Trader Vic’s
Promenadeplatz 2-6, 80333 Munich, Germany
Tel: 089 2120995
Open Mon-Sun 5pm–12am (or later in the bar)

Thanksgiving Dinner in the Bay Area

For those who don’t have family nearby to visit for Thanksgiving dinner, Le Continental hereby presents some suggestions for dinner on Thanksgiving in the Bay Area. Note: there are probably many newer restaurants that are offering Thanksgiving dinner. The focus of this blog is such that we will only suggest older, classic restaurants.

Most hofbrau style restaurants have turkey dinner on the menu. By hofbrau I’m referring to the Bay Area meaning of the term: a cafeteria, where you order from a food line and take your tray of food to a table (not the German term Hofbräu, which usually refers to a brewery that serves food). Usually there are waiters to take drink orders.

One of the oldest hofbraus in the Bay Area, and one of my favorites, is Lefty O’Doul’s, named after a San Francisco native pro baseball player, which opened in 1958. I’m not a fan of sports bars in general (too many TVs and beer posters for my liking), but this one has much historic charm, from its wood interior and tables to its many photos and memorabilia of local sports legends of the past. Nothing is decorated in a tacky way like many other sports bars. The food is pretty good and the drinks are strong. My favorite meal there is the house made corned beef hash for breakfast (with a bloody Mary of course). It’s a large place so it should be able to accommodate customers at any time of day.

Another historic hofbrau is Tommy’s Joynt, which opened in 1947 on Highway 101 in the heart of San Francisco. Cluttered with bric-à-brac and signs, much of it very old, it is a charming bit of old San Francisco with a Victorian theme. The food is good and very inexpensive. There is a huge beer selection, and the highballs are cheap but strong (Old Crow bourbon in the well is a plus).

There are other hofbraus in the Bay Area, but they all have more contemporary decor, are generally too brightly lit for my taste, and have mostly mediocre food, including the Harry’s chain, the Roast Haus in San Rafael, Bogy’s in S. San Francisco, the Europa in Orinda, and Oak’s Corner in Emeryville. One hofbrau that I would like to try is Chick-n-Coop in San Francisco’s Mission neighborhood, but I phoned and it will be closed on Thanksgiving Day. Finally, there is Brennan’s in Berkeley, an old favorite that had pretty good food, but it moved to a new location a couple of years ago and I have not wanted to check it out. Sam’s Hofbrau in Oakland R.I.P. (not really, it was actually pretty disgusting).

For something much, much fancier you could do no wrong at Harris’ Steakhouse, that is open and serving Thanksgiving dinner. (There are probably booked already, but there’s always next year.) Harris’ only dates back to 1984 (not insignificant in restaurant years!), but it has a classic feel (it replaced the venerable Grisson’s) and serves the best dry-aged prime steaks in the Bay Area, in my not-so-humble opinion. It is not affiliated with the Harris Ranch lower-end steakhouse and brand. Make sure you enjoy a Manhattan or Martini, which is served with its own little pitcher in a barrel of ice. And don’t forget to peek  at the steaks aging through the window from the sidewalk.

Another good choice is the House of Prime Rib. I like what’s left of the vintage decor (though much of it has been redecorated) and the food is pretty good. But I’ve had some problems with the service in the past, and on some occasions I’ve been unhappy with the table I was seated at and the noisy atmosphere. It is also always incredibly busy (which I can’t really understand). But if you can snag a booth in the front room it is an experience you should have at least once. They carve the meat and serve from beautiful metal carts, which originated at Lawry’s The Prime Rib in Los Angeles. They also stole the spinning salad bowl from Lawry’s.

As far as the East Bay (where I live) goes, I don’t know of any classic or historic restaurants that will be open for Thanksgiving dinner, but if you do know of one please mention it in the comments.

Thanksgiving Day Hours, 2012

Lefty O’Doul’s – 7am – 12 midnight
333 Geary Street  San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 982-8900

Tommy’s Joynt – 10am – 12 midnight
1101 Geary Boulevard  San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 775-4216

Harris’ – 3:30pm – 8:30pm
2100 Van Ness Avenue  San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 673-1888

House of Prime Rib – call (I couldn’t get through as the line was busy)
1906 Van Ness Avenue  San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 885-4605

Hofbraühaus, Munich, Germany

I recently spent some time in Germany and Scotland, so I’ll be blogging in the next few posts about some of the historic restaurants and bars I visited on my latest trip.

Munich’s Hofbraühaus brewery and beer hall dates all the way back to 1589, when it was built to supply duke Wilhelm V and his family with better beer than they were used to getting in Munich. The beer hall was relocated in 1606 and again around 1800, to be torn down and rebuilt in 1896. A portion of that building survived bombings in WWII and was fully rebuilt in 1958, which is the current Hofbraühaus.

 

photo by cooltownstudios.com

photo by cooltownstudios.com

 

The main hall, Schwemme, is a large room with many wooden tables (some are original from 1896) and is usually filled with a happy, boisterous crowd enjoying music by a Bavarian oompah band. There is also a smaller dining room, the Bräustüberl, upstairs on the second floor along with a large festival hall, and an outdoor beer garden.

 

 

The beer comes in three varieties at the Hofbraühaus: dark, original (helles), both served in one liter mugs (or maß), and weisse (wheat), served in half-liter glasses. The waitresses can carry up to ten or twelve full liter mugs at one time! The beer is super fresh and delicious!

 

 

I ordered a traditional crispy roasted pork knuckle with a potato dumpling and a pretzel. Hearty and tasty!

 

 

The Hofbraühaus is a must-visit when in Munich!

 

Hofbraühaus
Platzl 9, 80331 Munich, Germany
Tel: 089 290136100
Open: Mon-Sun 9am–11:30pm