I apologize for the lack of posts but Le Continental has been jet-setting recently, exploring Munich, Berlin, Edinburgh, and Glasgow. Posts on some historic eateries in these cities coming soon!
Meanwhile, here is some big news: the long-awaited new book by my friend Peter Morruzi (Havana Before Castro, Palm Springs Holiday) titled Classic Dining: Discovering America’s Finest Mid-Century Restaurants is out now (originally it was due on November 1st). Get yours at your local bookstore (or here), and if you are in the Los Angeles area you may want to attend the book launch on November 10th at Wacko bookstore in Hollywood. I have a copy of the book and it is gorgeous: filled with vintage photos and graphics, along with beautiful new photography by Sven Kirsten (Tiki Modern, The Book of Tiki). Buy the book and be inspired to visit the classic restaurants featured in the book (which also has a directory in the back of classic restaurants in the U.S.) because the book and this blog exist for the same reason: to inform people about classic and historic restaurants while they still exist, and to encourage them to patronize these restaurants so they can survive for as long as possible.
As Le Continental is packing for another trip to the continent, I realized that I never finished posting about restaurants I visited on my last trip to Europe.
Without a doubt one of the most beautiful restaurants in the world, Le Train Bleu is the name given to a restaurant in 1963 which was originally called Buffet de la Gare de Lyon when it opened during the Universal Exposition of 1900 (it opened in 1901). It is a grand example of the Belle Époque style of design, filled with 41 paintings of locations in the French rail system, current events, and buildings from the exposition, and the walls and ceiling are covered with gilt and sculptures.
“The tableau by BILLOTTE above the stairway leading down to the station platforms represents the Alexander III Bridge and the Palaces that housed the Exhibition in 1900, reminiscent of Saint-Mark’s in Venice.” – from the restaurant’s website.
I had some time to kill on a lunchtime layover en route from London to Zurich, so I stopped in for lunch. The steak tartare was excellent, mixed tableside with a dressing the waiter blended from scratch, then rested for several minutes so the flavors would mingle before it was served. You can also get the steak tartare seared (also tableside), which I would have tried if I had known about it (I saw another customer having it this way). The French fries were outstanding as well, very crispy on the outside and creamy inside. Every potato dish I had in Paris seemed so much better than most I’ve had here!
For dessert I had the rum baba, liberally doused with Rhum St. James from Martinique before serving.
the bar
Save your money for this special restaurant (as it is quite expensive) the next time you’re in Paris, or schedule a train connection so you can have lunch there. It will be worth it.
Le Train Bleu
Gare de Lyon – 75 012 PARIS
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 43 09 06
This blog is primarily intended to celebrate classic and historic restaurants that still exist, but occasionally I will be mentioning a restaurant that is gone or recently closed.
Le Continental visited Country Bill’s in Portland last May and regrets to report the news that it will be closing at the end of this week, after 48 years in operation. The last day it will be open is Saturday, Sept. 15th., 2012.
On the spectacular central California coastline of Big Sur lies a mid-century landmark restaurant that boasts arguably the best views of any restaurant in the world, Nepenthe (a Greek word for an antidepressant; the word was used in Homer’s Odyssey for an ‘anti-sorrow drug’). In 1947 Bill and Lolly Fassett bought a log cabin on the site, which was built by the Coastland Trails Club in 1925. They purchased it from Orson Welles, who bought it in 1944 and planned to live in it with Rita Hayworth (but never did). Henry Miller (the author) and Lynda Sargent rented the cabin until the Fassetts bought it. The Fassetts hired Frank Lloyd Wright-trained architect Rowan Maiden (1913-1957) to design a modern restaurant adjacent to the old cabin in the Organic architectural style. Nepenthe opened in 1949, and quickly attracted the attention of many bohemian writers, artists, and celebrities who lived in or visited Big Sur, including Henry Miller, who became a regular customer.
Nepenthe is still thriving, an accessible oasis in an area that unfortunately has been somewhat invaded by over-priced lodging and exclusive spas. Big Sur is still a wonderful place to visit, but my recommendation is to avoid it during the Summer, book a historic cabin at Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn or a campsite in the Fall (Andrew Molera State Park walk-ins are a favorite), or stay nearby in Monterey/Carmel. With the money you save eat at Nepenthe.
please click on image for legible version
The prices are a bit higher than on this vintage menu reproduction! In fact they are pretty high, but not too expensive considering the setting.
please click on image for legible version
The ‘Ambrosia’ hamburgers are good – a ground beef patty, fresh ground daily by Carmel Meats, cooked over a brazier, on a soft toasted steak roll with Ambrosia sauce (salsa, tomato sauce, and mayo), served with salad and great shoestring fries ($16.50). And after your meal you must try their specialty ‘C & C’ (Chartreuse and Cognac, which isn’t on the menu anymore so you may have to explain it to the waiter). Takes the chill off the night air!
The restaurant is popular, so be ready to wait. Not really a big deal with a beer, glass of wine (the local wines are excellent), or cocktail in your hand as you soak in the view. They have tables both inside the building and outside, which probably have the best views but you don’t get to experience the mid-century architecture as much.
Here’s a home movie that shows Nepenthe in 1956, as well as Deetjen’s, which also still exists.
There is a scene in The Sandpiper (1965) filmed at Nepenthe, which you can see in this video at 4:30. Dig the sixties hippie vibe!
Nepenthe
48510 Highway #1, Big Sur, California 93920
(831) 667-2345
Open for lunch daily 11:30a-4:30p, dinner 5pm-10pm everyday except Thanksgiving and Christmas
Last night I went with friends to a San Francisco Italian restaurant that has been open since 1956, but is sadly closing in about a week: Caesar’s. I’m posting this quick post as a suggestion to visit it while you can. It was packed last night (and noisy!) so make a reservation soon, and bring patience because it took a while to get our food and they were out of many items. Despite their business our waiter was efficient and helpful even while obviously rushed.
Art nouveau bar. I wonder where it came from, or what bar was here before Caesar’s?
The dining room has been remodeled recently but there are a few booths and the tables and chairs looked vintage.
I ordered the house specialty, Cannelloni Alla Romana.
Cannelloni Alla Romana
Crab Cioppino
Petrale Dore
Ravioli
It’s sad to see another San Francisco classic close its doors.
Arrivederci, Caesar’s.
Caesar’s
2229 Powell St, San Francisco, CA 94133
415-989-6000
Open Tue-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 4:30pm-9:30pm; Sat-Sun 1:30pm-9:30pm (through August 31st, 2012).
