Bakersfield – Basque City

Let’s stick with the American Basque restaurant theme after last week’s post on the Overland Hotel in Gardnerville, NV.

Bakersfield, California, is without a doubt the Basque capital of the west, if measured by the number of Basque bars and restaurants. There are three historic Basque hotels with bars and eateries in the old part of east Bakersfield by the railroad tracks (that was originally the town of Sumner, then Kern City, before becoming part of Bakersfield), plus a few Basque restaurants of more recent vintage in other parts of town.

 

photo by The Jab, 2011

photo by The Jab, 2011

 

photo by The Jab, 2011

photo by The Jab, 2011

The Pyrenees Cafe opened in 1887 as a hotel, saloon, and bakery. The hotel, which reportedly once housed a brothel, is now apartments, the bakery is still open under separate ownership, while the saloon remains pretty much the same, with the original bar and stools. It is the oldest operating bar in Kern County and it’s claimed to be haunted. If you only have time for one Basque meal in Bakersfield don’t miss the Pyrenees bar for a before dinner Picon Punch.

 

photo by The Jab, 2011

photo by The Jab, 2011

 

Noriega’s was opened by Faustino Noriega and Fernando Etcheverry in 1893 as a boardinghouse. It remains a boardinghouse to this day, making it the only remaining original Basque hotel still operating in the U.S.

 

The Noriegas - photo by The Jab, 2011

The Noriegas – photo by The Jab, 2011

 

In 1931, French Basques Juan and Gracianna Elizalde purchased Noriega’s, adding a bar and restaurant in 1940, which have not changed a bit since then (except for a small TV in the bar).

 

The Elizades - photo by The Jab, 2011

The Elizaldes – photo by The Jab, 2011

 

Today Noriega’s is still owned by the same family. It’s run by the Elizaldes granddaughters, Rochelle Ladd and Linda McCoy, who received the James Beard American Classic award for Noriega’s in 2011.

 

Noreiga's bar - photo by WineGoddess6 on TripAdvisor.com

Noreiga’s bar – photo by WineGoddess6 on TripAdvisor.com

 

photo by The Jab, 2011

Noriega’s dining room – photo by The Jab, 2011

 

As in most classic American Basque restaurants the food is served family style on long tables. Noriega’s menu includes breakfast, lunch (single seating at 12pm), and dinner (at 7pm), all very hearty meals, with dinner being the largest. The dinner “set-up” (Basque term for the various non-main courses) is generous, including homemade soup, fresh local salad with vinaigrette dressing, their famous pickled tongue, cottage cheese with mayo, pasta or rice, hand cut french fries (usually served with the main course), vegetable, beans, salsa, bread from the Pyrenees bakery nearby, excellent homemade blue cheese, dessert, and ice cream. When I dined there we also received potato salad. House wine, served in unmarked bottles, is included, as well as coffee, tea, or milk. And all that comes with TWO entrees, which vary by the day. Clearly a bargain. The Noriega is famous for their tender oxtail stew, served on Saturdays.

 

Noriega's set-up - photo by The Jab, 2011

Noriega’s set-up – photo by The Jab, 2011

 

 

Wool Growers restaurant - photo by David H. on Tripadvisor.com

Wool Growers restaurant – photo by David H. on Tripadvisor.com

 

Wool Growers Restaurant was opened in 1954 by J.B. and Mayie Maitia, French Basques, to fill a need in the community for an eatery during the hours when Noriega’s wasn’t serving. It is still owned by Mayie, along with her daughter, Jenny, and granddaughter, Christiane, and this year Mayie and her family are celebrating Wool Growers’ 60 years in business!

 

Wool Growers bar - photo by The Jab, 2011

Wool Growers bar – photo by The Jab, 2011

 

The restaurant has tables and booths for four and two, so it’s a good choice if you’re dining alone or prefer more privacy than communal dining provides. The dinner menu has several choices of hearty entrees, unlike many Basque restaurants which have a few entrees that change daily, and includes some French dishes like French Onion soup and escargots. At lunchtime they offer burgers and sandwiches in addition to a large selection of hearty meals. Saveur magazine wrote about the restaurant, praising their oxtail stew.

 

Wool Growers dining room - photo by Darryl Musick on wheelstraveler.blogspot.com

Wool Growers dining room – photo by Darryl Musick on wheelstraveler.blogspot.com

 

Although all three restaurants are worth visiting, If I had limited time I would try to eat at Noriega’s and have a Picon Punch in the bars at Pyrenees and Wool Growers. But why not make a weekend of it and eat at all three?

 

Pyrenees Cafe
601 Sumner St, Bakersfield, CA 93305
(661) 323-0053
Open Mon 10:00am-6:00pm, Tue-Th 10:00am-10:00pm, Fri-Sat 10:00am-12:00am, closed Sunday

 

Noriega’s
525 Sumner St, Bakersfield, CA 93305
(661) 322-8419
Open for breakfast Tue-Sun 9:00am-11:00am, lunch Tue-Sun 12:00pm (single seating), dinner Tue-Sun 7:00pm (single seating), closed Monday

 

Wool Growers
620 E 19th St, Bakersfield, CA 93305
(661) 327-9584
Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:00pm, 6:00pm-9:30pm, closed Sunday

 

CLOSED – Overland Hotel Bar & Restaurant, Gardnerville, Nevada

Recently I heard of the sale and closure of the Overland Hotel on U.S. 395 in Gardnerville, Nevada, one of a number of hotels that were built in the 19th century and early 20th century as boarding houses for migrant Basque sheepherders, who immigrated from the Pyranees during the California gold rush and Nevada silver mining boom. Over time most of the 300+ Basque hotels closed but a few remain as social gathering places for local Basques (and tourists) to drink a Picon Punch (aka Picon) and dine on hearty food, family-style. Le Continental previously visited Reno’s Santa Fe Hotel and Carson City’s Thurman’s Ranch House, which closed in 2013.

 

photo by The Jab, 2012

photo by The Jab, 2012

 

The only history I could find out about the Overland Hotel is that it opened in 1902. Here is a photo, probably from the 1940s.

 

photo courtesy of Picon Drinkers of the American West facebook page

photo courtesy of Picon Drinkers of the American West facebook page

 

I often drive highway 395 in the autumn to see fall colors along the spectacular route through the eastern Sierra. (Yes, I’m a leaf peeper!). The Overland Hotel was a welcome stop for a refreshing Picon, though I never passed through when I was hungry so, sadly, I have not eaten there.

 

photo by The Jab, 2012

Overland Hotel bar – photo by The Jab, 2012

 

The owner, Elvira Cenoz, retired after running the restaurant and bar for almost 50 years. I’ll proudly keep my souvenir napkin with her name on it.

 

Picon (or Picon Punch) - photo by The Jab, 2012

Picon (or Picon Punch) – photo by The Jab, 2012

 

The Overland Hotel is now closed as the Park family, the new owners, have not yet revealed their plans for the hotel (though they have stated on facebook that it will only be closed for a few months). I’m hoping the historic hotel, bar, and restaurant will be preserved as much as possible. The Park family also recently bought the Horizon Hotel in Lake Tahoe (which opened as Del Webb’s Sahara Tahoe in 1965 but was the Horizon since 1990) and will be converting it into a Hard Rock Hotel.

 

J T Basque Restaurant - photo by Jaspergo on Flickr.com

J T Basque Restaurant – photo by Jaspergo on Flickr.com

 

Meanwhile, in Gardnerville you can get your picons and meals at J T Basque Bar & Dining Room, which was opened in 1955 by the Jaunsaras and Trounday families (hence the name), and has been run by the Lekumberry family since 1960. The Victorian building it’s in was moved to Gardnerville in 1896 and it housed the restaurant and bar for the adjacent Gardnerville Hotel until 1928, when the hotel burned down (while this building survived). This fall I’m going to try to return to Gardnerville to dine at JT’s and afterwards I’ll return here with a full report.

 

 

Klas, Cicero, Illinois – CLOSED

In the Chicago suburb of Cicero, which lies between Oak Park (of Frank Lloyd Wright fame) and Midway airport, is the oldest operating Czechoslovakian restaurant in the U. S. The town became a Czech neighborhood in the 1920s as many Czechs took jobs in the Western Electric plant, but after the plant closed in the 1980s many Czech families moved away and the city is mostly Hispanic now.

 

photo by The Jab, 2010

photo by The Jab, 2010

 

Klas was opened in 1922 by Adolph Klas, from Pilsen in Bohemia, on what is now Cermak Rd. (named after Anton Cermak, Chicago’s first Czech mayor). The street was once called the Bohemian Wall Street because of all the Czech business along the thoroughfare.

 

early postcard - photo by Robert Powers on Flickr

early postcard – image by Robert Powers on Flickr

 

In the early days the restaurant was much smaller (as seen in above postcard). The wonderful rustic bar on the right, apparently an original 14th century tap room, which was reconstructed at Klas, is filled with carved wood monks, painted murals, and taxidermy. It is miraculously unchanged since it opened.

 

old bar postcard - image by John Chuckman

old bar postcard – image by John Chuckman

 

bar photo by The Jab, 2010

bar photo by The Jab, 2010

 

The other remaining part of the original restaurant is the room to the left of the bar, which served as the main dining room in the early days, which I believe is now the lobby (but I can’t recall exactly).

 

original dining room postcard

original dining room postcard – image by Robert Powers on Flickr

 

The restaurant expanded into its current configuration of the bar, main dining room, garden area, and banquet rooms, as seen in this linen postcard, most likely from the late 1930s or 1940s,…

 

postcard image by Mark Susina on Flickr

postcard image by Mark Susina on Flickr

 

…and this postcard, from the 1950s, which shows how it looked on the outside. It hasn’t changed very much since then.

 

1950s postcard - image by Robert Powers on Flickr

1950s postcard – image by Robert Powers on Flickr

 

The buildings, inside and out, have loads of fascinating detail so make sure you allow plenty of time to linger before and after your meal. Notice the Statue of Liberty replica on the building’s façade in this photo (curiously the date on the building is 1923, while the restaurant claims to have opened in 1922).

 

photo by The Jab, 2010

photo by The Jab, 2010

 

In 1962 Adolph Klas passed away. The restaurant was owned by various people until Frank Saballus, a former construction worker, bought it with his sister in 2003 to preserve this last bit of Czech-American culture in Cicero. Le Continental heartily thanks him for preserving such a wonderful restaurant!

 

photo by The Jab, 2010

Good advice before you enter the restaurant! – photo by The Jab, 2010

 

On my visit in 2010 I dined in the main dining room, which is a huge, bright (in the daytime) room with lovely arched windows with bold striped canopies (Le Continental approves of stripes) overlooking the garden, and with framed art and taxidermy (also Le Continental approved) on the walls.

 

photo by The Jab, 2010

photo by The Jab, 2010

 

Klas’ menu is Bohemian. I did not know what that was when I went so I ordered a breaded pork tenderloin (schnitzel) dinner, which came with soup or salad, two “compliments” (I chose bread dumplings and sauerkraut), dessert, and coffee. As you can probably tell in the photo below (before I dumped gravy on everything) the food is homemade, including the bread. Other specialties include wiener schnitzel a la Holstein (topped with two fried eggs, anchovies, and capers), svichkova (pickled beef in sour cream gravy), koprova (boiled beef in dill gravy), roast duck, and smoked sausage. Dessert specialties include kolacky, fruit dumplings, and apple strudel. They offer some Czech beer including Pilsner Urquell, Radegast and Staropramen.

 

photo by The Jab, 2010

photo by The Jab, 2010

 

Make sure you tour the restaurant and ask to see the banquet rooms upstairs!

 

the Dr. Zhivago Room - photo by The Jab, 2010

the Dr. Zhivago Room – photo by The Jab, 2010

 

mural in the Dr. Zhivago Room - photo by The Jab, 2010

mural in the Dr. Zhivago Room – photo by The Jab, 2010

 

banquet room - photo by The Jab, 2010

banquet room with original furniture! – photo by The Jab, 2010

 

amazing chandelier! - photo by The Jab, 2010

amazing chandelier! – photo by The Jab, 2010

 

Klas is indeed the House of Happiness! Their motto (over the door) is “Eat, Drink, and Be Happy”!

WARNING: the areas surrounding Cicero may be somewhat sketchy so it is best to call and ask before venturing out for the best route to take.

 

photo by The Jab, 2010

photo by The Jab, 2010

 

Klas Restaurant
5734 W Cermak Rd, Cicero, IL 60804
708-652-0795
Dining room open Fri-Sun 11:30am-9:00pm, bar hours Wed 6:00pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight or later, Sun 11:30am-10:00pm, closed Mon, Tue, Thu

 

Drive-Ins of Oshkosh, Wisconsin

Apparently today is National Root Beer Float Day. It seems there is an official day for every food these days. I’m fine with that! So it seems fitting to post about a town with great root beer and ice cream (or frozen custard).

In 2002, 2005, and 2007 the amazing Rockin’ 50s Fest took place in Green Bay, Wisconsin; seven days of some of the best rockabilly, rock ‘n’ roll, and country acts from the 1950s to the 21st century. Some of the artists that performed included Jerry Lee Lewis, Little Richard, Link Wray, the Collins Kids, Hank Thompson, Ike Turner, The Crickets, and many, many more. I attended two of the festivals, flying into Chicago and enjoying road trips to Milwaukee and eastern Wisconsin to Green Bay. Previously I posted about George’s Steak House in Appleton. Today we’ll be visiting a small town with not just one, but two original mid-century drive-ins – Oshkosh, Wisconsin.

 

photo by The Jab, 2007

photo by The Jab, 2007

 

Ardy & Ed’s Drive-In is perhaps the only original mid-century drive-in left that still has car hops on roller skates (actually, in the 1950s the car hops here didn’t wear roller skates, as you can barely make out in this photo).

 

Southside A&W, 1958 - photo by Ardy & Ed's Drive-In

Southside A&W, Oshkosh, 1958 – photo by Ardy & Ed’s Drive-In

 

It opened in 1948 as the Southside A&W Drive-In, one of a chain of A&W Root Beer drive-ins around the country. A few functioning A&W drive-ins still exist, mostly in Wisconsin and Michigan.

 

A&W car hop, 1964 - photo by vintagegal on Tumblr

A&W car hop, 1964 – photo by vintagegal on Tumblr

 

In 1960 Ardythe and Edward Timm bought the restaurant. In 1972 they went independent, renaming it Ardy & Ed’s, and they continued to make the draft root beer in-house. Today Ardy and her husband Steve own the restaurant, still making fresh root beer each day.

 

Ardy & Ed Timm - photo by Ardy & Ed's Drive-In

Ardy & Ed Timm – photo by Ardy & Ed’s Drive-In

 

Ardy and Ed’s menu is long, filled with burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches, and combo baskets. Their burgers are great and their root beer is outstanding. And of course they have root beer floats (voted best root beer float in Oshkosh), orange floats, and “cows” (root beer or orange soda whipped with ice cream). The ice cream for their floats comes from Cedar Crest, a quality Wisconsin ice cream manufacturer.

 

photo by The Jab, 2007

photo by The Jab, 2007

 

Friendly car hops on roller skates take your order and bring your food to your car (from the spring through fall).

 

photo by Steve on Urbanspoon.com

photo by Steve on Urbanspoon.com

 

After your meal at Ardy & Ed’s, why not have some frozen custard for dessert? In California we have soft serve ice cream but it is nothing like frozen custard (soft ice cream made with eggs) that you have to go to the midwest, preferably Milwaukee, to really experience (as well as such treats as brats, butter burgers, and lake perch fish fry). In Oshkosh, Leon’s Drive-In (not affiliated with the famous – and fabulous – Leon’s frozen custard in Milwaukee) has made frozen custard fresh every day since 1947.

 

photo by The Jab, 2005

photo by The Jab, 2005

 

Leon’s also has car hops! Except in the winter (see last photo below).

 

photo by The Jab, 2007

photo by The Jab, 2007

 

Leon’s menu includes sandwiches, such as their famous sloppy-Joe style Joos burger, and custard treats like cones, cups, and sundaes. They have a root beer float made with homemade root beer and frozen custard, and their version of a cow, called a whip. A specialty is their turtle sundae, frozen custard topped with hot fudge, caramel, and pecans.

 

photo by The Jab, 2007

photo by The Jab, 2007

 

 

Turtle Sundaes, image by The Jab, 2007

Turtle Sundaes, photo by The Jab, 2007

 

If you are ever in eastern Wisconsin, you should stop in Oshkosh for probably the best time travel drive-in experience in the U.S.! The town has a lot of history, so it’s well worth a bit of exploring. The famous Oshkosh B’Gosh overalls are no longer made in Oshkosh, but the company still has its headquarters there.

 

photo by John Gremmer on Flickr

photo by John Gremmer on Flickr

 

 

Ardy & Ed’s Drive-In
2413 S Main St, Oshkosh, WI 54902
(920) 231-5455
Open daily 10:30am-10:00pm (summer); 10:30am-8:00pm (spring & fall); closed in winter (call first)

 

Leon’s Frozen Custard
121 W Murdock Ave, Oshkosh, WI 54901920-231-7755
Open Sun-Thu 11:00am-11:00pm, Fri-Sat 11:00am-12:00am (summer, call ahead at other times of year)

Happy National Hot Dog Day!

Since it’s National Hot Dog Day I thought I’d highlight a few of my favorite hot doggeries around the country. One of my favorite historic hot dog restaurants, and tops in the country for original vintage decor, George’s Coney Island in Worcester, Mass, was one of my first blog posts a few years back.

 

George's sign

 

The hot dog was brought over to the U.S. from European immigrants, but its European origins are disputed. Sausage dates back to the 9th century BC (mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey), while the type of sausage used for hot dogs is similar to Weinerwurst or Vienna Sausage, which originated in Austria. However, the city of Frankfurt, Germany, claims it invented the frankfurter or “dachsund sausage” in 1497. Yet another claim is that a butcher in Coburg, Germany, invented the hot dog sausage in the 1600s and brought it to Frankfurt.

 

hot-dogs-hats

 

In any case the American hot dog on a roll is what we are concerned with here, which was reportedly already a German custom to eat sausage on a roll. It is a fact that hot dogs were first sold in New York City, either by a German immigrant from a cart in the Bowery in the 1860s or by Charles Feltman, a German butcher who opened the first Coney Island hot dog stand in 1871 (his employee, Nathan Handwerker, started Nathan’s in 1916). In 1893 hot dogs became popular at baseball parks and sold like hot cakes (or rather like hot dogs) at the Columbian Exposition in Chicago (sold by a pair of Jewish immigrants from Vienna who later founded Vienna Beef, Chicago’s most popular hot dog manufacturer). Also in 1893 the oldest mention of the term “hot dog” on record occurred in a Knoxville newspaper. (For more hot dog history visit the National Hot Dog and Sausage Council’s web site, where I sourced this info).

 

photo by The Jab, 2003

Superdawg, Chicago – photo by The Jab, 2003

 

Which city has the best hot dogs: New York or Chicago? People will argue this forever, but based on my experience Chicago wins hands down for best hot dogs in the country. Then there are the arguments within Chicago about who has the best hot dogs. We won’t go there because there are so many different types of hot dogs in Chicago (likewise, for pizza). There’s the classic Chicago dog “dragged through the garden” that is a steamed all-beef frankfurter on a poppy-seed roll with sliced tomato, raw chopped white onions, yellow mustard, bright green sweet relish, pickled sport peppers, celery salt, and a pickle spear (but never ketchup), reportedly invented at Fluky’s in 1929 (sadly, the only Fluky’s left is at a Wal-Mart in Niles, IL). Then there’s the char-grilled “char-dog”, which is terrific at Weiner’s Circle, where they only serve hot dogs cooked that way. And until it closes this October, the always busy Hot Doug’s serves dozens of hot dog specialties.

 

photo by The Jab, 2003

photo by The Jab, 2003

My favorite hot dog stand in Chicago is Superdawg. My Chicago friends may not agree, and I admit the hot dogs at Weiner Circle and Gene and Jude’s are great also (Wolfy’s is another one that comes out on top in polls), but I love the all-original drive up with car hops that is SUPERDAWG! Opened in 1948 by Maurie and Flaurie Berman, who have been represented on the roof of the restaurant as caveman and girl “dogs” since the beginning, it hasn’t changed much and, amazingly, it is still owned by the Berman’s, who run it with their children. They still have the same ordering system as in 1948: you drive in to the parking lot, order from your car into a mic/speaker, and your meal is brought to you on a tray in a very cute vintage looking box, which you will want to take home as a souvenir (mine still sits in my kitchen). This is one of the last restaurants in America that still has car hop service.

 

Superdawg with fries - photo by The Jab, 2007

Superdawg with fries – photo by The Jab, 2007

 

In addition to the Superdawg™, which is a spicy dog that comes fully dressed and includes a pickled green tomato wedge, they also offer a Whoopskidawg®, which is a Polish-type sausage on a roll with special sauce, grilled onions, and pickle, and several other sandwiches. Their crinkle-cut super fries are excellent.

 

photo by The Jab, 2003

photo by The Jab, 2003

 

In New York City your best sources for hot dogs are the many hot dog carts around the city and the bargain Papaya-drink-and-two-hot-dogs stands which started in 1932 when Papaya King opened on the upper East Side of Manhattan (still on the same street corner of 86th St and 3rd Ave, and in several other locations in NYC). Although it originally only sold fruit drinks it started serving hot dogs because the neighborhood was predominantly German-American at the time. In the 1970s and 1980s Gray’s Papaya and Papaya Dog copied the concept, but Gray’s is down to only one location. Which is the best? I’ll let you be the judge as I’ve only been to the original Papaya King.

 

photo by The Jab, 2005

photo by The Jab, 2005

 

If you’re in Georgia, the town of Macon is worth a detour for Nu-Way Weiners, open since 1916 (their sign was misspelled in 1937 and they kept it that way to this day) and still in the same location (plus several other locations). Their specialty is chili dogs, which are made with their special homemade chili sauce (no beans, just the way I like a chili dog).

 

photo by Carrie Swing on Flickr

photo by Carrie Swing on Flickr

 

My favorite hot dog stand in greater Los Angeles closed and was demolished in 2011. Papoo’s Hot Dog Show (yes, it was more than just a stand, it was a SHOW!) opened in 1949 in Burbank, across the street from Bob’s Big Boy designed by Wayne McAllister in the Googie style in the same year (and still open).

 

3202967040_16cee546aa_z

photo by Terry Guy on Flickr

 

You can see Papoo’s in the original version of Invasion of the Body Snatchers (1956).

 

InvasionBodySnatchers

 

Inside Papoo's - photo by Carrie Swing on Flickr

Inside Papoo’s – photo by Carrie Swing on Flickr

 

Lastly, in the San Francisco Bay Area, where I live, I’ve been disappointed by most of the hot dogs I’ve had (they are usually lukewarm, not hot). My favorite was the old Kasper’s on Telegraph Ave at Shattuck Ave, which closed “for remodeling” way back in 2002 and never re-opened. Kasper’s was started by Kasper Koojoolian, from Armenia, in 1930 at the corner of Fruitvale Ave and MacArthur Blvd (old US 50). Partners invested and It expanded into other locations in the 1940s, but in 1955 Kasper’s brother Paul split off, continuing as Kasper’s, while the rest of the partners started a chain of hot dog restaurants called Casper’s. Today there is still a Kasper’s on MacArthur Blvd (not in the same location as the original), in addition to others in Castro Valley, Hayward, and Pleasanton.

 

Kasper's, MacArthur Blvd., Oakland - photo by The Jab, 2013

Kasper’s, MacArthur Blvd., Oakland – photo by The Jab, 2013

 

Casper’s continues with 8 Bay Area locations, and most have the original 1960s modern look in bright oranges and browns. Since 1989 the company has made its own frankfurters under the Spar Sausage name. I like the hot dogs at both Kasper’s and Casper’s, but Casper’s has the edge for taste and for decor.

 

photo by The Jab

Casper’s, Telegraph Ave., Oakland – photo by The Jab, 2013

 

I leave you, dear readers, with this photo I took on the road in Georgia in 2005, and a video of an amazing neon sign at Taylor Brothers Hot Dogs in Visalia, CA (where I need to go!). Please check the linked web sites for location, addresses, and open hours of the above establishments.

 

photo by The Jab, 2005

photo by The Jab, 2005