Dan and Louis Oyster Bar, Portland, Oregon

On this New Years Eve for my last post of 2013 I thought I would wrap up coverage of my recent visit to Portland, Oregon, with a post on another venerable seafood restaurant in Portland, Dan & Louis Oyster Bar. Because oysters and champagne go great together! And I believe Dan & Louis is open on New Years Eve (always call first).

 

image by The Jab

image by The Jab

 

In the 19th century the first oyster farm in Oregon, at Yaquina Bay, was started by Meinert Wachsmuth from Denmark. His son, Louis Wachsmuth, opened a small seafood shop and oyster bar in Portland in 1907, expanding into the former Merchants’ Exchange Saloon in 1919. To accomodate the demand for his popular oyster stew, Louis added a wonderful nautical themed dining room complete with a mast and porthole windows in 1937 and a ‘reserve’ dining room with a boat-shaped exhibition style kitchen in 1940. Both dining rooms and the bar are still in use and are chock full of bric-à-brac, nautical artifacts, and historic photographs of Pacific Northwest fishing and boating scenes, many wonderfully displayed in backlit porthole ‘windows’.

 

main dining room - image by The Jab

main dining room – image by The Jab

 

image by The Jab

image by The Jab

On Dan & Louis’ web site the restaurant claims it is the “Oldest Family Owned Restaurant in Town”. Huber’s Cafe has been in the same family’s ownership since 1912, and claims to be Portland’s oldest restaurant, which is true according to my criteria since it dates back to 1895 as Huber’s. But Dan & Louis technically started in 1907 by Louis Wachsmuth (although not in its present location until 1919) and amazingly it is still owned by the same family. Currently it is operated by Doug Wachsmuth (grandson of Louis Sr.) and his sons Ted and Meinert Keoni Wachsmuth. So, it beats Huber’s by a mere 5 years to have the honor of being Portland’s oldest family owned restaurant. In case you’re wondering where Dan fits in their history, he was Louis and Elizabeth Wachsmuth’s second son (their first was Louis Jr.) who died tragically at only 27 years old, so his name was added to Louis’ name on the restaurant’s sign in memorial.

 

main dining room - image by The Jab

main dining room – image by The Jab

 

Their specialty, oysters, come in several varieties from the Pacific Northwest, which change daily. I ordered a half-dozen oysters on the half shell in an assortment (two of each of three different varieties). All were extremely fresh and tasty. Some of the best oysters I’ve ever had! The price varies but during happy hour (M-F from 4:00pm-6:00pm) you can get a dozen for $15.95 (bar only). I was in the mood for scallops so for my entrée I had the half portion broiled scallops platter (half portions are only on the lunch menu) with a cup of excellent smoked salmon chowder. The scallops were fresh and delicious. They are also famous for their seafood stews (oyster, crab, or bay shrimp), so they are another good choice.

 

reserve dining room - image by The Jab

reserve dining room – image by The Jab

 

Take it from Sebastian Cabot and eat at Dan and Louis Oyster Bar, Portland’s oldest family owned restaurant! Why not go tonight and start a New Years Eve tradition? Dan and Louis offers a good domestic sparkler, Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut, but at a hefty markup – $48/bottle (ouch). I would get a great local beer (also great with oysters) or wine.

 

Sebastian Cabot at Dan & Louis - image by The Jab

Sebastian Cabot at Dan & Louis – image by The Jab

 

 

Happy New Year, dear readers! I wish you many happy dining pleasures in 2014!

 

Vincent Price

Vincent Price

 

 

Dan and Louis Oyster Bar
208 SW Ankeny St, Portland, OR 97204
(503) 227-5906
Open Mon-Th 11:00am-9:00pm (bar opens at 4pm), Fri-Sat 11:00am-2:00am (???), Sun 12:00pm-9:00pm (Le Continental always recommends phoning first to confirm, as I tried to visit on the Sunday before Labor Day a few years ago and it was closed)

 

Jake’s Famous Crawfish, Portland, Oregon

On my first visit to Portland (that started my love affair with the city) in the 1990s the first place I remember eating at was Jake’s Famous Crawfish. We stayed in the venerable Mark Spencer Hotel, only a block from Jake’s, so when we saw their neon sign we knew where we wanted to eat (without the help of smart phones or online reviews).

 

Jakes

photo by The Jab, 2013

 

We were very pleased with the food, atmosphere, and service. As I recall our veteran waiter was from San Francisco, where he had worked at the Blue Fox until it closed in 1993 (now Alfred’s Steakhouse). Since then I found out that Jake’s is owned by a large chain, McCormick & Schmick’s, and I also learned that it’s mainly a tourist place that few locals visit, with so many other better choices in the food scene in Portland in the last ten years. But it will always have a place in my heart, as a warm & comfortable historic landmark that serves great fresh local seafood (if one orders with savvy).

 

Jakes Famous Crawfish

image by Citroendork on Flickr.com

 

Jake’s Famous Crawfish opened in its current location in 1911 in the Whitney & Gray Building (1910), making it Portland’s second oldest restaurant, after Huber’s, which dates back to 1895 using my guidelines. It opened as a saloon that served crawfish called Mueller and Meier, which had existed in a previous location since 1892.. In 1913 the name changed to the Mueller and Meier Cafe, staying open through Prohibition by switching to soft drink service. In 1920 the restaurant was purchased by Jacob “Jake” Frieman, a popular waiter in a local crawfish restaurant called Quelle, who was responsible for the restaurant’s good reputation as a seafood house (and I assume when it started being called Jake’s). The restaurant went through several ownership changes until 1972, when it was purchased by William “Bill” McCormick, who hired Doug Schmick as his manager. The pair would later form the restaurant corporation McCormick and Schmick’s.

 

Jake’s bar. Image by mondodinner.com

 

As you enter Jake’s you come to the hostess stand. On your left is the bar (the back bar was shipped around Cape Horn in 1880), where seating is unreserved so it is a good backup plan if there is a long wait for the dining rooms (and there often is). The room is fine for dining with wooden tables and chairs in front of large windows overlooking the street and full menu table service by a waiter. But if you want a more formal dining experience you may prefer to eat in the dining room on surrounded by dark woods and oil paintings of Northwest scenes, lit by chandeliers that date back to 1881.

 

image by http://anadventurouspalate.tumblr.com

 

The menu changes daily and features listed at the top various fresh Northwest seafood specialties of the day, including several oyster varieties (all have location of origin). When crawfish is in season during the months of May through September do not miss their crawfish specialties. Among the scads of seafood dishes they have a few steak and other meat dishes. On my most recent visit I had grilled steelhead (an anadromous – spawns in freshwater after living in the ocean – rainbow trout) from Washington. It was moist, tender, and perfectly cooked, served in a basil-butter sauce. The prices are pretty high, as in all quality seafood restaurants in the west (not like in Florida, where super fresh seafood can be inexpensive).

But as in most restaurants and bars in Portland there is a bargain happy hour every day of the week, and late at night on Friday and Saturday! Another reason I love Portland: happy hours are long, usually every day, and offer better deals than in the Bay Area (where $1 off drinks from 5pm-6pm M-F is the norm – big whoop). Bars have to serve food in Portland so it’s a great town for drinking but not getting too loaded!

 

Here’s a clip from Elvis’ best movie, King Creole:

 

Jake’s Famous Crawfish
401 SW 12th Ave., Portland, OR 97205
Phone: 503.226.1419
Open M-Th 11:30AM-10:00PM, Fri-Sat 11:30AM-12:00AM, Sun 3:00PM-10:00PM

 

Cap’s Place, Lighthouse Point, Broward County, Florida

Just north of Fort Lauderdale is one of the most unique historic restaurant experiences in the country. What makes Cap’s Place so unique, other than its history, is that to reach the restaurant you need to take a boat. You can use your own boat to get there, or you can drive to their dock in the middle of a suburban neighborhood and take their ferry over to the restaurant. It is a lovely ride on the inland waterways, especially at night when it’s quite romantic.

Cap's boat 1

the arrival of Cap’s ferry

DSCF0307

image by Capsplace.com

Cap’s Place originally opened as Club Unique, a supper club, casino, and speakeasy built on a beached barge in 1928, and run by Captain Theodore “Cap” Knight, a local rum runner, with his wife Lola. Many celebrities and important figures dined there over the years, including Winston Churchill and President Franklin D. Roosevelt during WWII, when they were having secret war meetings at a nearby estate. The bar and dining rooms were filled with nautical artifacts collected by Cap, including a carved wooden bowsprit from a Spanish galleon (in photo below and still in the bar today). The bartender in the photo is Al Hasis, Cap’s friend and business partner since the beginning. The gambling was stopped in 1951, Cap passed in 1964 at ninety-three, Lola passed in 1989, and since then the Hasis family are the current owners. The restaurant was listed on the National Register of Historic Sites in 1990.

image by Capsplace.com

Upon arrival you walk up Cap’s dock onto their private island where there is a patio dining area, a bar, a restaurant, some smaller buildings, and some cats roaming around.

image by Capsplace.com

The history is apparent inside, with the original wooden floors and the wooden walls covered with old photographs and nautical decor.

DSCF0311

Cap's photo

Cap's dining room

Cap’s dining room

One of their specialties since the beginning is hearts of palm salad, which is made with Sabal Palms grown near Lake Okeechobee. Their menu is focused on local seafood.

hearts of palm salad

hearts of palm salad

The next time you are in Fort Lauderdale, check out Cap’s Place for a unique and historic dining experience. Just be sure and get precise directions from the restaurant’s web site (or call first) because it can be hard to find the ferry dock (and don’t expect a taxi driver to be able to find it – something I learned the hard way!).

Cap’s Place
Cap’s Dock is at 2765 N.E. 28th Court, Lighthouse Point, FL
Phone (954) 941-0418
Open Sun – Thurs 5:30pm – close (call first)

The Cafe Royal, Edinburgh, Scotland

Last year I had the pleasure of visiting Edinburgh and Glasgow in Scotland, and I realized that I had neglected to post about my visit there when I covered my Europe trips on the blog last year.

On a side street near the central train station, the Cafe Royal in Edinburgh is probably the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the city (though I have not verified that), and perhaps its most beautiful. It opened in 1863 in a Parisian style building by Edinburgh architect Robert Hamilton Paterson, moving from its original 1807 location nearby.

Cafe Royal

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cafe Royal

 

 

 

The opulent Victorian and Baroque interior is filled with original carved wood paneling, ornate plaster ceilings, stained glass windows, and Doulton ceramic murals from Edinburgh’s 1886 International Exhibition of Industry, Science and Art.

Cafe Royal inside 2

In 1965 Woolworth bought the building and planned to replace the restaurant with an expansion of its store, but a public petition saved the building, which was then listed on the National Register in 1970.

Cafe Royal inside 1

The restaurant specializes in oysters, seafood, and traditional Scottish meat dishes, and the bar has a selection of local real ales on tap and a good whisky list. For an elegant dinner in Edinburgh it will be worth seeking out this restaurant.

The Cafe Royal
19 West Register Street, Edinburgh, Scotland EH2 2AA
Phone:  0131-556-1884
Open Mon-Wed 11am-11pm, Thu 11am-12am, Fri-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 12.30pm-11pm